I recently came across two interesting new South Indian restaurants in Mumbai. One was Kerala Quarters, a restobar that offers Keralite food. The other, Benne Heritage Dose, serves tiffin items from Bangalore, such as benne dosa and ragi idli. Both cater to a slightly upscale customer. The cost of the dishes are significantly higher than that of Mumbai’s existing Keralite and Udupi restaurants, which are typically Spartan, budget eateries catering to a mass audience. The ambience and experience offered by both are far more ‘modern’ and yet the food served is traditional. It is presented in the way it is typically eaten. There is nothing modern Indian, progressive, or reimagined about it. Just food as we know it.
Pankaj Gupta opened Kerala Quarters four months back. He is a restaurateur who swears by what he calls ‘micro cuisines’. The food at Kerala Quarters is inspired by the offerings available in Kerala’s toddy shops. I have eaten in just one toddy shop. It was located outside Kochi. The food was delicious, although it was pretty spicy. I was told that there is no fixed menu in toddy shops and that this changes depending on what is locally available. I loved the rustic vibe of the place. I felt alive sitting and eating among those who seemed like regulars, relishing their food along with a toddy. Toddy has a very short shelf life and does not travel well, and you will not find it on offer at Kerala Quarters. I love eating in Mumbai’s Keralite restaurants. My favourite is Hotel Deluxe at Fort. Some of the other popular ones are Rahmaniya and Taste of Kerala (run by Mangalorean Christians) in Fort, Hotel Sneha in Mahim and Hotel Sunny at Chembur. Eating at such places is right up my street. The food is terrific: being surrounded by Malayalis who are visibly enjoying their food tells you that this is the real deal. The gentrified world of Kerala Quarters is far removed from such places. I enjoyed the food that I had…the Calicut mutton biryani, prawn manga curry, duck curry, fried mandeli, Ernakulam pork belly, nool parotta and appam…though something was missing.
Benne has become the unlikely darling of the avocado and matcha devotees of Bandra since it opened a year ago. I visited the newly opened branch at Juhu, which is also doing well, touchwood. Shriya Narayan and Akhil Iyer, a young couple from Bangalore, own it. The two say that they opened Benne in Bandra a year back to introduce the dishes of their childhood to Mumbai. Dishes which they love and missed here. In the process, they have made benne dosas a rage in Mumbai. Which is wonderful as I love benne dosas and missed having them in Mumbai. I have had a few of the benne doses that are currently on offer in Mumbai, but I find the benne dosa at Benne to be the closest to the ones I’ve had at places such as CTR and MTR.
Celebrating food as we know it
With popularity comes criticism, most of which is predictable. They say that Benne is overhyped. I don’t agree with this, as their product is quite good. Then there are those who are bemused by how an everyday dish has become a fad, with people willing to pay top dollar for something which does not cost the same as traditional favourites. Kerala Quarters probably has its detractors who question its toddy shop claims.
I can understand where these doubts are coming from. I, too, am a romantic and a traditionalist when it comes to food. No frills, food focused places, rock my boat. But what I call ‘grunge eating’ is not for all. My wife, for example, would seek modern comforts along with good food when she goes out to eat and would not be at home at the eateries of yore that are frozen in time. A certain amount of plushness, hygiene, facilities such as comfortable air-conditioning and clean toilets would be expected…valet parking and wifi too. Let me quickly add, in case she reads this, that I am not being judgemental. I like my creature comforts too. A Kerala Quarters or a Benne would fit the bill and that’s why we need places such as these. If we want our everyday dishes to become popular among those who are ‘global citizens’ then we need to make this food available in a format that appeals to them.
Or should keep quiet when a Prada does a Kolhapuri mutton, sorry chappal, or Starbucks does a turmeric latte. For if we don’t celebrate our food, then someone from outside will.
PS Head to MH 09 Shetkarii by Suraj Sankpal or the Maratha Kitchen by Abhishek Tulaskar to get a taste of Kolhapuri mutton in Mumbai. Once again new restaurants, started by new gen restaurateurs, who are proud of their own food.
