 |
| Pulao at the Mahim Darga gulley |
I am always wary of giving people biryani recommendations.
I remember my first Mumbai biryani experience when, like countless
other Kolkatans, I decried it to be ‘mangshor jhol bhaat’ (curry rice). Since
then I have had countless biryanis in the biryani capitals of India, Lucknow and Hyderabad. I have tried the Andhra and
Tamil Ambur versions in Bangalore and the Keralite and Punjabi ones in Mumbai and realized that the biryani one gets in Kolkata is not the only type of biryani
available. A bit like the US where ‘pizzas’ could take completely different
forms based on whether they are thin crust ones from NYC, deep dish ones from
Chicago or fusion ones from California.
other Kolkatans, I decried it to be ‘mangshor jhol bhaat’ (curry rice). Since
then I have had countless biryanis in the biryani capitals of India, Lucknow and Hyderabad. I have tried the Andhra and
Tamil Ambur versions in Bangalore and the Keralite and Punjabi ones in Mumbai and realized that the biryani one gets in Kolkata is not the only type of biryani
available. A bit like the US where ‘pizzas’ could take completely different
forms based on whether they are thin crust ones from NYC, deep dish ones from
Chicago or fusion ones from California.
Food writers such as Lizzie Collingham and Chitrita Banerji have
written about how biryani is a dish which owes its origins to the Persian meat
and rice dish, pilaf, which the Mughals brought with them to India. That in
India this was a part of the royal kitchens of Delhi and then took two
different paths. One to Lucknow, close to Delhi, and the other to Hyderabad in
the South. The dish that emerged, the biryani, was influenced by rice dishes served
in India then which used to be a lot spicier. Which is possibly why, the
further South you go – Mumbai, Hyderabad, Kerala, Andhra – the more biryani gets
spicier.
written about how biryani is a dish which owes its origins to the Persian meat
and rice dish, pilaf, which the Mughals brought with them to India. That in
India this was a part of the royal kitchens of Delhi and then took two
different paths. One to Lucknow, close to Delhi, and the other to Hyderabad in
the South. The dish that emerged, the biryani, was influenced by rice dishes served
in India then which used to be a lot spicier. Which is possibly why, the
further South you go – Mumbai, Hyderabad, Kerala, Andhra – the more biryani gets
spicier.
On the other hand, the biryani of Lucknow is not as spicy and masala
laden as that of the South and is closer to the pulao. One gets versions of the original pilaf in Delhi where it is
called Moradabadi pulao and in Mumbai’s Bohri Mohalla and Mahim, where it is called Delhi
pulao.
laden as that of the South and is closer to the pulao. One gets versions of the original pilaf in Delhi where it is
called Moradabadi pulao and in Mumbai’s Bohri Mohalla and Mahim, where it is called Delhi
pulao.
Ironically, while biryani owes its origins to the Persian pulao, the
Parsis of Mumbai don’t really have a special biryani. Their celebratory dish
remains the pualo daal.
Parsis of Mumbai don’t really have a special biryani. Their celebratory dish
remains the pualo daal.
 |
| Lucknowi Kofta biryani at Kakori House |
The Lucknow biryani story didn’t end in Lucknow though. When Nawab
Wajid Ali Shah was exiled from Luknow to Delhi he took his royal cooks with him
as a part of his entourage. The cooks had to make do with limited financial
resources and yet feed the exiled noble’s court. The biryani that emerged was
less rich, had less of meat and ghee and saffron, which were expensive. The then
recently introduced to India, the relatively cheaper potato, was added to make
up for the reduced portions of meat. Thus emerged the Kolkata biryani whose
soul, many of its loyalists, say lie in the potato.
Wajid Ali Shah was exiled from Luknow to Delhi he took his royal cooks with him
as a part of his entourage. The cooks had to make do with limited financial
resources and yet feed the exiled noble’s court. The biryani that emerged was
less rich, had less of meat and ghee and saffron, which were expensive. The then
recently introduced to India, the relatively cheaper potato, was added to make
up for the reduced portions of meat. Thus emerged the Kolkata biryani whose
soul, many of its loyalists, say lie in the potato.
 |
| Kolkata biryani at Lazeez |
One key difference in the Lucknowi and the Hyderbadi style of the
biryani is that the meat in the Hyderabadi one is cooked along with the rice
(hence the term ‘kachhi gosht ke biryani’). In the Lucknowi and Kolkata styles
the meat is cooked separately and added in to the rice.
biryani is that the meat in the Hyderabadi one is cooked along with the rice
(hence the term ‘kachhi gosht ke biryani’). In the Lucknowi and Kolkata styles
the meat is cooked separately and added in to the rice.
Over the years I’ve learnt not to judge people on their biryani
tastes. I have realized that one’s preferences in biryani are moulded strongly
by what one has grow up on. I, for example, just cannot settle for any other
biryani so strong are my affiliations to the Kolkata biryani that I have grown
up on. The reason, I suspect, why Chitrita Banerji says the Avadhi version of
Lucknow is superior to the one of Hyderabad in her book, Eating India.
tastes. I have realized that one’s preferences in biryani are moulded strongly
by what one has grow up on. I, for example, just cannot settle for any other
biryani so strong are my affiliations to the Kolkata biryani that I have grown
up on. The reason, I suspect, why Chitrita Banerji says the Avadhi version of
Lucknow is superior to the one of Hyderabad in her book, Eating India.
The thing about Mumbai is that the city is a melting pot of cultures.
It doesn’t allow you to remain insular. It challenges you to open your eyes to
new possibilities. One of the recent fall outs of this is that one gets an
opportunity to taste a multitude of biryanis from across India in Mumbai.
It doesn’t allow you to remain insular. It challenges you to open your eyes to
new possibilities. One of the recent fall outs of this is that one gets an
opportunity to taste a multitude of biryanis from across India in Mumbai.
One of the best places to do so is the relatively unsung Mumbai food
district of Mahim causeway in the area around the Mahim Darga (mosque). There
are quite a few old restaurants here and loads of Muslim street food (kebabs,
channa with offal, pulao, halva) on offer near the Darga yet Mahim never got
the iconic status of a Mohammed Ali Road, the hot spot of Mumbai for Muslim
street food. The Mahim Darga area got a fillip recently with the introduction
of new restaurants here from the local Chinese favourite 5 Spice to restaurants
dishing Mughlai fare from Lucknow and even Kolkata.
district of Mahim causeway in the area around the Mahim Darga (mosque). There
are quite a few old restaurants here and loads of Muslim street food (kebabs,
channa with offal, pulao, halva) on offer near the Darga yet Mahim never got
the iconic status of a Mohammed Ali Road, the hot spot of Mumbai for Muslim
street food. The Mahim Darga area got a fillip recently with the introduction
of new restaurants here from the local Chinese favourite 5 Spice to restaurants
dishing Mughlai fare from Lucknow and even Kolkata.
Which is why Mahim seems to be the perfect spot to do a biryani walk
in Mumbai. One gets a variety of biryanis here from across India. Mahim is a good
place to try them all and compare tasting notes. When the rice gets too much
one can take a break with some Lucknowi gulavti kebabs, Kolkata rolls or
Keralite beef fry. The perfect evening for those who love their biryani and are
obsessed about it or for those who want to know more about it.
in Mumbai. One gets a variety of biryanis here from across India. Mahim is a good
place to try them all and compare tasting notes. When the rice gets too much
one can take a break with some Lucknowi gulavti kebabs, Kolkata rolls or
Keralite beef fry. The perfect evening for those who love their biryani and are
obsessed about it or for those who want to know more about it.
Here’s what is on offer in Mahim. We can try Lucknowi biryani which
defines the biryani of the North. We can then compare this with Kolkata biryani
which evolved from Lucknowi biryani and look for the common DNA. We can experience
a comparatively unheralded biryani, the Keralite biryani. While not as well
known as the biryanis of Lucknow and Hyderabad, Keralite biryani is represented
in Mumbai through hidden pockets of small Keralite eating houses. In case you
thought biryani is a rice dish then challenge your preconceptions with the
Keralite beef kappa biryani which is made with tapioca as they base and not
rice. A favourite in Keralite weddings.
defines the biryani of the North. We can then compare this with Kolkata biryani
which evolved from Lucknowi biryani and look for the common DNA. We can experience
a comparatively unheralded biryani, the Keralite biryani. While not as well
known as the biryanis of Lucknow and Hyderabad, Keralite biryani is represented
in Mumbai through hidden pockets of small Keralite eating houses. In case you
thought biryani is a rice dish then challenge your preconceptions with the
Keralite beef kappa biryani which is made with tapioca as they base and not
rice. A favourite in Keralite weddings.
 |
| Keralite Kappa biryani at Sneha |
Mahim and its street food stalls also give you a chance to taste
pulao to which biryani owes its origins. Are they really that different is a
question our tastings will try to answer.
pulao to which biryani owes its origins. Are they really that different is a
question our tastings will try to answer.
 |
| Pulao outside Mahim Darga |
While you don’t get a Hyderabadi biryani yet in Mahim (Golconda Bowl
in Juhu is a good option) you can taste the quintessential Mumbai biryani
biryani here. Some say that the roots of Mumbai’s biryani lie in those of
Hyderabad. Having tried both I feel that the Mumbai one is a lot more masala
power packed in comparison to that of Hyderabad. Plus the Mumbai biryani often
has some small pieces of potato in it.
in Juhu is a good option) you can taste the quintessential Mumbai biryani
biryani here. Some say that the roots of Mumbai’s biryani lie in those of
Hyderabad. Having tried both I feel that the Mumbai one is a lot more masala
power packed in comparison to that of Hyderabad. Plus the Mumbai biryani often
has some small pieces of potato in it.
 |
| Mutton biryani at Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Durbar |
What the Finely Chopped biryani walk will allow one to do is try out the various
biryanis popular in India in one evening and try to get a more rounded
appreciation of this iconic Indian dish.
biryanis popular in India in one evening and try to get a more rounded
appreciation of this iconic Indian dish.
The Mahim biryani walk is one of unabashed eating with very little
walking. It is not for those on a diet. Biryani, and Muslim food, as a genre is
meat heavy though one can get options for vegetarians but not at all the stops.
walking. It is not for those on a diet. Biryani, and Muslim food, as a genre is
meat heavy though one can get options for vegetarians but not at all the stops.
Biryani, as dish, has moved to the royal courts to the masses. Today
it is soul food for the whole of India. A dish that unites all. The iconic
biryani restaurants of Lucknow, Hyderabad, Kolkata and even Mumbai are all places
for serious eating. Places to eat your fill and move on. They don’t really
focus on ambience and the ‘experience’ is supposed to come from the food and
not the trappings around it. The biryani joints of Mahim follow in this
tradition. Most are pretty small, a reflection of Mumbai’s expensive real
estate, some even non- airconditoned, and some, mere street food stalls. So
this walk is for those for whom food comes before all. This is a walk for those
seeking comfort food and not comfort while eating. So don’t expect fine dining
here. What you can expect though is an insight into biryani, a dish that unites
India.
it is soul food for the whole of India. A dish that unites all. The iconic
biryani restaurants of Lucknow, Hyderabad, Kolkata and even Mumbai are all places
for serious eating. Places to eat your fill and move on. They don’t really
focus on ambience and the ‘experience’ is supposed to come from the food and
not the trappings around it. The biryani joints of Mahim follow in this
tradition. Most are pretty small, a reflection of Mumbai’s expensive real
estate, some even non- airconditoned, and some, mere street food stalls. So
this walk is for those for whom food comes before all. This is a walk for those
seeking comfort food and not comfort while eating. So don’t expect fine dining
here. What you can expect though is an insight into biryani, a dish that unites
India.
So here are the details of the Mahim Biryani Finely Chopped Walk.
Date: 20th
December, 2014
December, 2014
Time: 7.30 pm to 10.00 pm
Location: Mahim Causeway.
Start point: Paradise Cinema
Start point: Paradise Cinema
Inclusions: 4 to 5 food
stops covering restaurants such as Sneha, Shiraz, Kakori House, Jaffer Bhai’s
Delhi Durbar and the Mahim Darga street food stalls. Food covered will include
a range of biryanis and some Muslim street food dishes such as kebabs, rolls,
offal. Beef will be served on the walk but mutton (goat meat) options available
for those who want to avoid it. Chicken will be ordered only on special request
as it is not traditional to biryani. Vegetarian options are possible in the
biryanis but not for the street food and this is essentially a non-vegetarian
walk.
stops covering restaurants such as Sneha, Shiraz, Kakori House, Jaffer Bhai’s
Delhi Durbar and the Mahim Darga street food stalls. Food covered will include
a range of biryanis and some Muslim street food dishes such as kebabs, rolls,
offal. Beef will be served on the walk but mutton (goat meat) options available
for those who want to avoid it. Chicken will be ordered only on special request
as it is not traditional to biryani. Vegetarian options are possible in the
biryanis but not for the street food and this is essentially a non-vegetarian
walk.
Price: Rs 2,500 per head inclusive
of tastings.
of tastings.
Write in at k.finelychopped@gmail.com or tweet me at @finelychopped or write to me at the Finely
Chopped Facebook page if you want to join. Looking forward to seeing you there
Chopped Facebook page if you want to join. Looking forward to seeing you there
The following are the links
to:
to:
My article in the TOI Crest
Edition on biryani
Edition on biryani
My post on the biryanis of
Kolkata
Kolkata
My post on the biryanis of
Lucknow
Lucknow
My post on the biryanis of
Hyderabad
Hyderabad
I wish I could be there for this tour!