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Crab khuddi with croissant pav
  1. Note: We visited Bandra Born on 10th December 2023.

Given Bandra’s rich heritage in bakeries, it is no surprise that the food that we tried at Bandra Born featured some great bread and bakes.

Bandra Born is a pop-up restaurant which stands where Salt Water Cafe, a modern-day Bandra restaurant institution, stood till recently. Bandra Born is helmed by restaurateur Riyaaz Amlani and chef Gresham Fernandes who were the team behind SWC too. 

SWC had become a prisoner to its success according to Gresham. Attempts to change the menu were apparently met by severe backlash from customers. K and I were guilty of this as well so I get what he means. 

With culinary genius and artist
chef Gresham Fernandes

 

Chef Gresham is a Bandra boy himself and the food at Bandra Born draws on his influences while growing up in Mumbai’s ‘Queen of Suburbs’. Bandra has been my home through my 25 years in Mumbai. I wanted to try out the Bandra Born menu and compare notes with my experiences in Bandra. We finally made it after the first pop-up period was over. Luckily the concept has been a hit and they have decided to extend it.

Here’s what we had that night.
 

East Indian crab khuddi with croissant pav. 

 
Pav with crab. Ignore the finger, please.


The crab curry was packed with flavours of the sweet pulled meat of crab with the East Indian bottle masala adding a mild spice note. We have had chicken and mutton khuddis (curries) in the past and this offered the same sense of comfort. The showstopper of the dish, and the meal, was the buttery, layered ‘croissant bread’ which was presented in the shape of a ladi pav loaf. It was arguably one of the most indulgent breads that K and I have had in our lives and it was hard to stop at just one (by two, as we shared it). I blanked out visions of my various dieticians as I dived onto its chubbiness with hedonistic glee. 
 
 
Posh Hearsch chicken puff. 
 
Posh Hearsch Puff
 
This is named after the humble chicken puff of Bandra’s beloved Hearsch bakery. Albeit a souped-up version, pun intended, of it. It had a wine, truffle chicken-wing reduction (you got the ‘juice’ pun now?) to pair with the flaky crust of the puff pastry. The crust was light and crisp and offered a pleasant mouth feel when paired with the viscous jus. Was the truffle oil really necessary? The opinion against the use of this synthetic mix is strong after all and is seen to be a sign of culinary laziness which is anything but the case here. Some food for thought. Enveloped inside the tart was a generous and moist chicken filling. Crowning the puff was a slightly tart salad which offered a nice relief to the overall robustness of the dish. The chicken pie won K’s. She is not a fan of puffs or pies in general, so this says a lot.

  1. Inside the posh puff

Marrow chilli cheese. The smooth, roasted buff marrow, with a mildly sweet Asian flavouring, was mindblowing and made our tastebuds quiver in ecstasy. It was topped with pickled habanaro which added to the wickedness. Surely a creature of the night! The marrow was served with a Hokkaido bread cheese chilli toast. The toast was nice by itself but seemed incongruous when combined with the marrow. The sharp flavours of the cheese overshadowed the subtlety of the marrow. I’d have served the marrow with plain Hokkaido bread. Or Melba toast. Butter garlic toast at the most. 

Wicked Delicious. The marrow. Not the baldie.


It’s fair to say that we enjoyed everything that we tried and that we plan to go back to try more from the menu. And, in case you were wondering, bread doesn’t feature in all the dishes!

Chef Gresham said that they have come up with an innovative cocktail menu. We don’t drink anymore so can’t tell you much about it. We didn’t order dessert so he sent us a nice, jiggly caramel custard on the house.

The ambience with its purple-lit ‘discotheque vibe’ reminded me of a time two decades back when we would go clubbing and there’s no sauce like nostalgia as they say.

 


How ‘Bandra’ is Bandra Born?

To me, the food scene of Bandra is all about creativity, and tasty and memorable food, which you want to keep going back to. Food that starts off as being trendy and then becomes comfort food. The food has to be well thought through and deliver joy. Food which is too clever by half, remain fads that die out soon. We Bandra’ites take our food rather seriously.

Bandra Born ticks all the right boxes. I’d urge you to give in to the great culinary experience on offer rather than over-analysing it and trying to draw pedantic connections with Bandra. 

Do we miss Salt Water Cafe?

Of course, we do! Here’s what I wrote about it.

Does Bandra Born make up for it?

The two radically different offers and comparing one versus the other will do a disservice to both.

It’s fair to say that Bandra Born has shaken up the city’s dining scene just as Salt Water Cafe had 15 years back and kudos to the team behind it for that.
 

Two Salt Water Cafe loyalists who were admittedly
Happy at Bandra Born.

 

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