Alu posto is a Bengali dish made with posto or poppy seeds. As the Tibetan and Bhutanese delights of Blue Poppy show, there is more to the food of Kolkata than just Bengali food.
One monsoon evening in the early 90s,
during my college days, I followed a group of my college friends down the
alleys of Elgin Road.
during my college days, I followed a group of my college friends down the
alleys of Elgin Road.
We were a tracking a find which a few in the group had recently made. We opened the gate of a house and walked down a lane,
into a drawing room and then to a verandah beyond it. We were at the setting of
a new Kolkata phenomena then. That of Tibetan families opening small
restaurants within the houses of Elgin Road, near Bhowanipore. Restaurants
which were fitted into existing corners and nooks and could be anything from a 4 to a 10
seater with a few odd unmatched tables shoved in. These restaurants served some
Tibetan dishes such as momos, thupkas and the local version of Chinese. The
biggest draw for our hungry young stomachs then were the low prices. For a very
little sum you could fill your tummy with steamed pork momos. What made the
experience unbeatable was the clear pork broth which came with this which would
completely satiate you. At a time where one had to stretch one’s very meagre
pocket money, this was manna.
into a drawing room and then to a verandah beyond it. We were at the setting of
a new Kolkata phenomena then. That of Tibetan families opening small
restaurants within the houses of Elgin Road, near Bhowanipore. Restaurants
which were fitted into existing corners and nooks and could be anything from a 4 to a 10
seater with a few odd unmatched tables shoved in. These restaurants served some
Tibetan dishes such as momos, thupkas and the local version of Chinese. The
biggest draw for our hungry young stomachs then were the low prices. For a very
little sum you could fill your tummy with steamed pork momos. What made the
experience unbeatable was the clear pork broth which came with this which would
completely satiate you. At a time where one had to stretch one’s very meagre
pocket money, this was manna.
I made frequent trips to the Elgin Road
momo shops during my college and business school years. Then for some reason
one just didn’t manage to go back to them once I began working. Nor did they
feature in my trips back home after I moved to Mumbai. I must go back someday.
momo shops during my college and business school years. Then for some reason
one just didn’t manage to go back to them once I began working. Nor did they
feature in my trips back home after I moved to Mumbai. I must go back someday.
The Tibetan restaurants of Elgin road are
still there I am told. However, over the last few years, the one name that
comes up when momos and Tibetan food in Kolkata is discussed is that of Blue
Poppy. Friends of mine such as Kaniska and Soumik, whose tastes in food I
trust, swear by it.
still there I am told. However, over the last few years, the one name that
comes up when momos and Tibetan food in Kolkata is discussed is that of Blue
Poppy. Friends of mine such as Kaniska and Soumik, whose tastes in food I
trust, swear by it.
I had not heard of Blue Poppy till
recently. I found out that Blue Poppy is just about a decade old. Which means
it opened almost 5 years after I left the city. This possibly explains why I
hadn’t heard of it in the pre-social media era. At that time my awareness of
the city was shaped entirely by my past experiences in the city. It’s only
after I met new folks from Kolkata through the blog and social media that I
became aware of places I hadn’t heard of earlier. Including some legends such as Kalman’s the meat shop.
recently. I found out that Blue Poppy is just about a decade old. Which means
it opened almost 5 years after I left the city. This possibly explains why I
hadn’t heard of it in the pre-social media era. At that time my awareness of
the city was shaped entirely by my past experiences in the city. It’s only
after I met new folks from Kolkata through the blog and social media that I
became aware of places I hadn’t heard of earlier. Including some legends such as Kalman’s the meat shop.
I had been wanting to go to Blue Poppy ever
since I heard Kaniska speak of it so lovingly but due to paucity of time and a
big list to tick, I hadn’t managed to do so on my recent trips to Kolkata. We
finally managed a trip to the elusive eatery this time.
since I heard Kaniska speak of it so lovingly but due to paucity of time and a
big list to tick, I hadn’t managed to do so on my recent trips to Kolkata. We
finally managed a trip to the elusive eatery this time.
It was fitting that Manishita, the wife of
Kaniska who so loves Blue Poppy, took us there.
Kaniska who so loves Blue Poppy, took us there.
There are three Blue Poppies in Kolkata it
seems. We went to the one on the first floor of Sikkim House at Russel Street
near the Drive Inn restaurant.
seems. We went to the one on the first floor of Sikkim House at Russel Street
near the Drive Inn restaurant.
We went pretty late. It was close to 9.30
pm. They take the last order at 10.30 pm apparently. It’s more of a snack place
I have been told.
pm. They take the last order at 10.30 pm apparently. It’s more of a snack place
I have been told.
The streets around us were empty. Our
friend Nathan, who has recently moved into Kolkata, had earlier pointed out to
me how the streets in Kolkata suddenly empty once it turns dark unlike in Mumbai
where the traffic is manic 24 X 7.
friend Nathan, who has recently moved into Kolkata, had earlier pointed out to
me how the streets in Kolkata suddenly empty once it turns dark unlike in Mumbai
where the traffic is manic 24 X 7.
Manishita, K and I walked up the stairs to
the first floor. Saw a row chairs kept in a hall. Manishita said that these
were for people to sit on while waiting.
the first floor. Saw a row chairs kept in a hall. Manishita said that these
were for people to sit on while waiting.
No such problem that night though as the
restaurant was fairly empty barring 2 or 3 other tables.
restaurant was fairly empty barring 2 or 3 other tables.
The setting of Blue Poppy at Russel Street is
that of a large dining hall. The tables and chairs pretty basic. Someone on
twitter later asked me if it was smelly. It wasn’t. Seemed pretty clean. The
place is much much larger than what I remembered of those mom and pop Elgin
road Tibetan joints which used to be tucked into unused corners of houses.
that of a large dining hall. The tables and chairs pretty basic. Someone on
twitter later asked me if it was smelly. It wasn’t. Seemed pretty clean. The
place is much much larger than what I remembered of those mom and pop Elgin
road Tibetan joints which used to be tucked into unused corners of houses.
We placed our order. I had twitter tips to go by.
Recos from Soumik and Kaniska. Plus Manishita of course who has often eaten
here with Kaniska.
Recos from Soumik and Kaniska. Plus Manishita of course who has often eaten
here with Kaniska.
We started with a prawn Thukpa, the Tibetan
soup. Manishita said she wouldn’t have it. A few bites of the clear noodle soup
and one realized why. It was devoid of taste. Was like sipping on boiled dish water.
Reminded me of my feeling of being underwhelmed by the Vietnamese noodle soup,
pho, in Australia. K concurred too and neither of us finished the soup which we
were sharing. This was the only false note in the evening. Later, folks on
twitter told me that Blue Poppy is not the place for thukpa. I had forgotten my
golden rule of going by the recommendations of the person who had brought me to
a restaurant, specially if it was their favourite. If Manishita said no thukpa,
no thukpa it should have been.
soup. Manishita said she wouldn’t have it. A few bites of the clear noodle soup
and one realized why. It was devoid of taste. Was like sipping on boiled dish water.
Reminded me of my feeling of being underwhelmed by the Vietnamese noodle soup,
pho, in Australia. K concurred too and neither of us finished the soup which we
were sharing. This was the only false note in the evening. Later, folks on
twitter told me that Blue Poppy is not the place for thukpa. I had forgotten my
golden rule of going by the recommendations of the person who had brought me to
a restaurant, specially if it was their favourite. If Manishita said no thukpa,
no thukpa it should have been.
Next were the pork momos. The minced pork
filling was incredibly juicy and delicately yet enticingly flavoured. It was so
full of taste that we didn’t need a dipping sauce with it. The coating was a
bit tough though, specially at the edges. Manishita asked the folks at the
counter if the momos were fresh. They had no qualms in saying that the momos
were made in two batches, at 12 noon and 4 in the evening and then re-heated and
served though the day. So now you know when to go if you want fresh momos.
Still, one must tip one’s hat to the pork filling. I just loved how understated
and yet so full of zest this was.
filling was incredibly juicy and delicately yet enticingly flavoured. It was so
full of taste that we didn’t need a dipping sauce with it. The coating was a
bit tough though, specially at the edges. Manishita asked the folks at the
counter if the momos were fresh. They had no qualms in saying that the momos
were made in two batches, at 12 noon and 4 in the evening and then re-heated and
served though the day. So now you know when to go if you want fresh momos.
Still, one must tip one’s hat to the pork filling. I just loved how understated
and yet so full of zest this was.
We had also ordered another Tibetan pork
dish called shapta which came well recommended on twitter. This turned out to
be an incredibly tasty dish. Thinly sliced juicy pork cooked in a red chilly base and
covered in a bed of finely fried red onion strips. A power packed dish if ever
there was one. A great example of using spices to excite and yet not overwhelm.
Though strongly spiced, the taste of the meat was not hidden and each
succulent bite of pork was a heavenly delight. Thank god that compared to
Mumbai you get pork more easily in restaurants of Kolkata and of such good
quality stuff. The night before we had some pretty nice pork at Jimmy’s
Kitchen.
dish called shapta which came well recommended on twitter. This turned out to
be an incredibly tasty dish. Thinly sliced juicy pork cooked in a red chilly base and
covered in a bed of finely fried red onion strips. A power packed dish if ever
there was one. A great example of using spices to excite and yet not overwhelm.
Though strongly spiced, the taste of the meat was not hidden and each
succulent bite of pork was a heavenly delight. Thank god that compared to
Mumbai you get pork more easily in restaurants of Kolkata and of such good
quality stuff. The night before we had some pretty nice pork at Jimmy’s
Kitchen.
After the tempest of the shapta was the
sobering plate of greens which Manishita had called for us like a good mother.
This is a dish of stir fried greens and they had used the locally available
kolmi shaak. Tasted pretty nice and crunchy actually with the slight flavour of
garlic complementing the taste of the greens. It’s a good contrast to have
along with the more bold and very meaty shapta. In
fact Baba Ling at Ling’s always tells us to order Chinese greens with our pork.
sobering plate of greens which Manishita had called for us like a good mother.
This is a dish of stir fried greens and they had used the locally available
kolmi shaak. Tasted pretty nice and crunchy actually with the slight flavour of
garlic complementing the taste of the greens. It’s a good contrast to have
along with the more bold and very meaty shapta. In
fact Baba Ling at Ling’s always tells us to order Chinese greens with our pork.
I never do. Maybe I should.
Suddenly Manishita remembered another
favourite of Kaniska’s here. She must have been missing him. She quickly called
for a Q Dasi. A Bhutanese dish. Like the shapta, this too was a first for us.
favourite of Kaniska’s here. She must have been missing him. She quickly called
for a Q Dasi. A Bhutanese dish. Like the shapta, this too was a first for us.
Q (pronounced kee) Dasi is a fondue like cheese
based soup with slices of boiled potato in it. It’s dreamy and creamy. K’s fav
dish of the evening I think and all three of us slurped our portions up from our plates. The cheese
had a very alluring and enticing flavour. I asked the folks at the counter
about the origins of the cheese expecting some exotic local Bhutanese cheese to
be named. The guys at the counter with a deadpan expression said, ‘Amul’. No
pretences here.
based soup with slices of boiled potato in it. It’s dreamy and creamy. K’s fav
dish of the evening I think and all three of us slurped our portions up from our plates. The cheese
had a very alluring and enticing flavour. I asked the folks at the counter
about the origins of the cheese expecting some exotic local Bhutanese cheese to
be named. The guys at the counter with a deadpan expression said, ‘Amul’. No
pretences here.
Now here’s the interesting thing. Though it
was cool outside I began to perspire while I had the Q Dasi as I normally do
when I have something too spicy or hot. Which is when I realized that the dish
had a strong chilli kick hidden under the innocent looking cheese sauce. If you
had any fondue-like illusions of Switzerland, the chilli kick strongly thumped
in the Bhutanese subcontinental origins of the dish. Ema Dasi btw is the non chilli version of the same dish.
was cool outside I began to perspire while I had the Q Dasi as I normally do
when I have something too spicy or hot. Which is when I realized that the dish
had a strong chilli kick hidden under the innocent looking cheese sauce. If you
had any fondue-like illusions of Switzerland, the chilli kick strongly thumped
in the Bhutanese subcontinental origins of the dish. Ema Dasi btw is the non chilli version of the same dish.
We were pretty full by now but our generous
host wanted to order something else so I suggested a mixed fried rice to satiate
my Bengali rice loving belly. The rice was from the Chinese part of the menu at
Blue Poppy. The fried rice in Kokata Chinese places, including here, comes
tossed in sauces and can be had by itself. In Mumbai, apart from in Ling’s,
most Chinese fried rices are white and flavourless forcing you to order a side
with it. What I loved about the fried rice in Blue Poppy were the pillowy bites
of fatty pork in it.
host wanted to order something else so I suggested a mixed fried rice to satiate
my Bengali rice loving belly. The rice was from the Chinese part of the menu at
Blue Poppy. The fried rice in Kokata Chinese places, including here, comes
tossed in sauces and can be had by itself. In Mumbai, apart from in Ling’s,
most Chinese fried rices are white and flavourless forcing you to order a side
with it. What I loved about the fried rice in Blue Poppy were the pillowy bites
of fatty pork in it.
It was time to leave after the sumptuous
meal. It was close to 1030 pm and we were the only people left. Yet, the staff
didn’t hurry us. The three of us then went to Au Bon Pain in Park Street for an
adda and again the staff very sweetly kept the place open for us though it was
after closing hours.
meal. It was close to 1030 pm and we were the only people left. Yet, the staff
didn’t hurry us. The three of us then went to Au Bon Pain in Park Street for an
adda and again the staff very sweetly kept the place open for us though it was
after closing hours.
If I look back at our evening at Blue Poppy
what comes to mind is a happy evening marked by lovely conversations, a warm
and kind host and some pretty memorable food.
what comes to mind is a happy evening marked by lovely conversations, a warm
and kind host and some pretty memorable food.
The mark of a happy place.
Thupka or Thukpa?
Seems underwhelming experience, overall!
Kolkata could use a good Din Tai Fung style XLB place!
thupka
Color me confused! The menu says thukpa – ka before pa!
I did a google search and saw that is actually thukpa. changed it in the blog. thanks