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Note: This is a long post. I contemplated breaking it into 4 posts but they seemed to go better together. Hope it is not too clumsy to read

There seems to be a renaissance of the Indian dining scene going on in Delhi right now.
I quite enjoyed my evening in the trendy reinvented
Irani Café Sodabottleopenerwala in Delhi’s Khan Market recently. I went back to Delhi and
Gurgaon a week later and was spoilt silly by the folks there. In the process I
got to try out dishes which really pushed the boundaries of Indian cuisine . The dishes in
some cases drew inspiration from regional cuisines and in some cases from international  and modern cooking formats. This was different
from the usual butter chicken and dal makhni fare of Delhi. The plating was unique
compared to the classic formats one is used to in Indian fine dining
restaurants and five stars. Most of the places I went to were high end places and would qualify as fine dining.
There were Oberoi’s Amaranta and the Leela Kempinski’s
Diya in Gurgaon and then the hip young café in the buzzing Cyber Hub, Farzi café.
In Delhi there was the much revered Indian Accent by Manish Malhotra.
Amaranta
Amaranta is executive chef Ravitej’s baby. I
happened to meet him when I went to the Oberoi Gurgaon with food critic and friend
Marryam Reshii.
I’ve realized that 5 star executive chefs
can be of various types. There are the ones who have moved in to a more administrative role
away from actual cooking. The ones who are seen more often on TV than in their
hotels. And then there are those, like Ravitej, who still seem to enjoy
cooking.

Chef Ravitej looks on while Chef Harish explains his menu

Amaranta is a coastal themed restaurant and
we had chef Harish cooking up a many coursed meal for us. Though a coastal restaurant, there is more to what’s served here than seafood. The menu
highlights the diversity of food to be found in the coast of India.
There were three stand out dishes for me in
the fantastic dinner that we had at Amaranta.
There was the Pondicherry inspired version
of the French bouillabaisse with seafood. This was so delicately flavoured that
the sweet taste of the crab got highlighted beautifully. Very different from
the usual masala heavy preparations one gets in Indian coastal restaurants which hide the taste of the seafood used.
They used a flaky crust on top in Amaranta rather than the usual soft bread
used in Pondy which gave a nice textural contrast to the dish.
Then there was the foie gras lightly cooked
with a touch of pepper. I love foie gras and the pepper heightened the creamy
delight of the meat without taking away from its magnificence.

Pepper steamed foie gras

Another standout dish from the dinner was
the Syrian Christian inspired Wagyu beef chilly fry. The meat was beautifully
marbled and was placed on a fried onion and chilli base. The Wagyu was
not covered with the masala which meant that one could enjoy the exquisite cut
of meat in its full glory. The masala embellished and didn’t overpower the beef. This was served with a breath taking mustard seed specked bacon rice. The excellent bacon, I was
told, was from the Oberoi delicatessen. Reminded me of the early days of our
marriage when K and I used to blow up our salary buying good meats from the
Oberoi Mumbai deli and cooking them at home. At that time imported meats were
hard to get. I am talking of the early 2000s.

Wagyu beef chilli with bacon rice

While we had a nice chocolate uthapam with
sugar free chocolate sauce for dessert, what won my heart was the Belgianchocolate cookie served with the green tea. It was so good that I packed some
to take home for K.
Diya
with Kunal Kapoor
The next night I took my brother and sister
in law to Diya where chef Kunal Kapoor had offered to cook for us. I met Kunal
during the dhaba trail in Punjab a month back and we had hit it off really
well. On hearing that I was coming to Gurgaon, Kunal  insisted that I come over to the Leela where
he offered to cook for me. It turned out to be like a family evening as Kunal’s lovely wife Ekta
and adorable son, Ranveer, joined us and we had a great time together.


 

Kunal with his wife Ekta

Diya is Kunal’s baby as he had worked here
for a while. He is no longer the chef at Diya as he is the roving exec sous
chef for the Leela Gurgaon restaurants. He chose to host us at his favourite
playground, Diya. Kunal told me that his training is in Punjabi, Hyderabadi,
Lucknowi and Goan. The dinner he fixed for us was largely Hyderabadi and
Lucknowi based to give a break from the usual Punjabi that one would get in
Delhi. The plating of the dishes was very contemporary and different from the
staid plating one associates with Indian fine dine restaurants. The dishes that he cooked us are his personal favourites and not all of them are there in the Diya menu now.
The most memorable dishes from the evening
was the tangy mutton sev which was an interesting meat based take on the Indian
vegetarian chaat. Then there was a truffle and 4 mushroom galauti that we would
never have guessed was not made with meat had we not known better. The haleem
kebab which drew on the meat and wheat broth base of Hyderabad and converted it
into a kebab held us in its spell. As did the slices of brinjal cooked in a
mango chutney whose tangy freshness wowed us three Bengalis. This is a dish
inspired from the food Kunal has grown up on. He did also feed us the very
Punjabi juicy bhatti (grilled) chicken. Talking of Bengalis, the mutton in
the mains had an onion paste base and reminded me of a Bengali kosha mangsho.

Truffle galawti

Bhatti chicken
The two desserts, the Baileys chhanar payesh
and the shrikhand were both wonderful takes on traditional Indian dishes which
toned the usual sweetness levels making them more universal in appeal. I have
often seen Westerners baulk at the excessive sweetness of Indian desserts. In
both these desserts Kunal had given an international veneer to two very Indian desserts. The Bengali
payesh Bengali and the Marathi orgined shrikhand appealed were a happy
coincidence for someone like me who has grown up in Kolkata and now lives in
Mumbai. The desserts very different from the normal gulab jamun, shahi tukda  and gajar ka halva you will expect in traditional
Indian restaurants in Delhi.

Shrikhand

Bailley chhana payesh

Farzi
Cafe
Farzi Café in Gurgaon’s Cyber Hub, I am
told, is one of the most difficult tables to bag in Delhi NCR these days.
Luckily I was with food writer, Vir Sanghvi, who was hosting me and he booked a
table in advance.

With the young chef Saurabh of Farzi Cafe
Farzi Café has drawn the nation’s capitals
attention by offering new interpretations of Indian dishes with a non
stratospheric pricing. It is from the people behind the more expensive and
formal Masala Library in Mumbai.
They had the odd molecular gastronomy touch
in the form of mishti doi globules and paan candy floss. While those were
harmless distractions, what I liked were some of the starters put up by chef
Saurabh of Farzi. There was the Hoisin duck samosa which used a tender duck
Chinese flavoured stuffing instead of the usual spicy alu, thus adding a new variant
to the multiple samosas available in India. The inside out vada pao, with a
slight bread stuffing inside the potato croquette, instead of the usual bun
outside was pretty tasty as batata vadas go. The dish took a simple street food
dish from Mumbai in the West and put it seamlessly in a trendy café in Gurgaon
in the North. I had heard about the dal chawal arancini here and quite liked
the Indian khichdi variant of the Italian risotto rice ball dish that they served here.

roast duck samosa

A couple of dishes that were not as exciting were the pork ribs which could be out of any Indian Chinese sauce heavy restaurant and the kalonji (onion seed) lamb which needed more of the spice to give it an Indian flavour.

There was a nice kadi in the mains. The
chef I believe is Rajasthani and was on home ground with this.
I tried the machhed jhol (Bengali fish curry) rice where a
fairly Bengali themed onion seeds tempered sauce was served separately with rice and
fried fish. This, possibly unknowingly, was a throwback to the Bengali catering
tradition of serving the gravy separately from the fish in wedding feasts as
the fish would break when cooked in large quantities. There was a crown of
fish sauce flavoured rice crispies on the rice which didn’t make sense as the
rice crisps would get soggy when mixed with the gravy.

machher jhol rice

We quite liked the spicy chorizo rice too
though but both Mr Sangvi and I felt Goan sausages would have made the dish more Indian
and interesting.
I had the Parle G cheesecake for desserts
which was served like the ice cream sandwiches of Mumbai’s K Rustom. This is a
rather sweet mithai flavoured cheesecake served sandwiched between two Parle G biscuits. Was a bit overpowering for me.
If I was to sum up the experience at Farzi, it was a
vibrant high energy take on contemporary Indian food which took this genre out
of its usual fine dining environment and made it more youthful.
Surely the right way to go.
Indian
Accent
You can’t follow the Indian food scene
without bumping into mentions of chef Manish Arora and his legendary Indian Accent. I
asked Marryam and Vir about the food there and both turned out to be big
fans of Chef Mehrotra’s work. I was then connected with chef Mehrotra who
invited me over for dinner. He was not in town but his colleague of many years,
chef Shantanu Mehrotra, personally looked after us the night I went to the
Indian Accent.

Chef Shantanu Mehrotra from the Indian Accent
Mohit AKA Chowder Singh joined me so I had
an evening of great conversation to go with the great dinner.
The food served that night Indian Accent was
good solid stuff and didn’t have any gimmickry attached to it. It was a fresh
play on textures and Indian flavours. Presented in a very modern way, different from
what you would associate with traditional Indian restaurants. The ambience is classy and
more grown up than that of Farzi. Palki, the manager at Indian Accent, looked
after us along with chef Shantanu. She meticulously explained each dish and her
enthusiasm was infectious. The restaurant is located in a hotel called The
Manor which is a bit difficult to find so you have to cling on to Google maps
to get there.
The experience started with an amuse bouche of a
little naan which looks pretty normal till the burst of strong blue cheese
inside it hit you and energised you.
The strong emphasis of flavours came through
in the baked Amritsari masala John Dory where the seductive butter hit took you straight to the
temple town of Punjab where butter rules over every kitchen.

Amritsari masala baked fish

Vegetarian dishes seem to be a stronger
area here as they maximize the contrast of textures in these dishes.
The khandvi ravioli was a great contrast of textures. The khandvi layer was thinner than what finds in traditional khandvis which made it go well with the nutty layer below.


Khandvi ravioli

The multi dimensional curry powder lemon grass tofu dish excited us the most that evening. The two layered flavour experience starts with a coconuty spicy whiff and is followed  by a tangy citrusy tinge which slowly creeps up on you.

lemon grass, curry powder tofu

Then there was a beetroot peanut butter tikki
which evoked memories of the bhej (vegetable) chops of the streets of Kolkata
with the interplay of soft beet and crunchy peanuts. The tikki was steamed and not fried and though the menu said ‘peanut butter’ there were bites of crushed peanut which contrasted will with the soft and sweet beet mash.

The vegetarian dishes indeed teased
your every sense.
In contrast, the kalonji pork ribs seems to
underwhelm. While well cooked it didn’t match up to the flavour or texture
bursts of the vegetarian dishes. Perhaps a bit more of the onion seeds
(kalonji) to start with would help. Similarly the tanginess in the prawn with
lemon pickle seems to be a bit too overwhelming and didn’t live up to the
multi-sensorial experience evoked by the vegetarian dishes.

Kalonji ribs

Mohit and I, both hardcore non-vegetarians,
were wowed more by the vegetarian dishes which is quite an accomplishment for
the kitchen.
They serve a range of kulchas with the
mains and the bacon and duck kulchas are show stoppers. Some of the pairings
didn’t seem to go together that well such as the sausage fried in mustard oil
with the gobindobhog khichudi.

Sausage with khichdi

The John Dory with pine nut poriyal
reminded me of a nice Thai curry. Mohit felt that fresh coconut cream would be
nicer. Well, he is the trained chef. As for me, I liked the sharpness in the sauce which went well with the crisp fish.

poriyal John Dory

The desserts tended to be on the stronger
side and their takes on the meethee roti and the dodi barfi treacle tart will
delight those with a strong sweet tooth. I liked both of them. They offer a version of Old Delhi’s
Daulat ke chaat too which I felt was overshadowed by the other desserts that we
tried.

The dessert platter

So did Indian Accent live up to the aura
surrounding it?
Well it definitely offered an experience
which was different from what one is used to in Indian restaurants. It was
different in terms of the plating and presentation. The experience was not just about visual stimulation. Most of the dishes, specially the vegetarian ones,
really excited one in terms of the range of taste and texture contrasts. Both
Mohit and I agreed that this was good hearty food presented in an exciting
format. The food didn’t leave you hungry. Wasn’t about gimmickry or being smart.
This is food for those who like to eat.
The tasting menu which comes at close to Rs
3000 would be a good bet here.
My four meals got me thinking. What chef
Ravitej and Harish had done in Amaranta was to marry the best of international
produce and cooking techniques with the coastal Indian cooking tradition to offer
an Indian culinary experience that could hold its own in the international fine
dining space.
Chef Kunal used the modern fine dining
presentation idiom and drew on the wide range of Indian regional and home
cooking to offer an experience which was different from what one is used to in
Indian restaurants and is yet very Indian in roots.
The experience in Indian Accent was one
which brought in a modern touch to the Indian dining experience. If Lila and
Amaranta were about international luxury, then the Indian Accent was more about
contemporary spunk and innovation. The Indian roots prominent in all these
cases.
Farzi Café seemed to carry on what Indian
Accent had started. Its chef after all is from the Indian Accent nursery. What
distinguishes Farzi is that its vibe and pricing is a lot more youthful than Indian Accent. This ensures that the experience of modern Indian cuisine spreads to a larger
audience from the rarified five star circles which is important for this
movement to flourish.
What is to be seen is whether this modern Indian movement can
spread to the larger mass from being the reserve of the high end dining space. 

Farzi Cafe is a move in this direction. As is Kolkata’s Bohemian.

Note: Farzi Cafe and Indian Accent are both supposed to open in Mumbai this year
Disclaimer: This is not an anonymous review. The meals at Amaranta, Diya and Indian Accent were hosted by the restaurants

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  • suvro says:

    Interesting read.
    I could not get a handle on the veg dishes at Indian Accent that impressed you:
    Khandvi ravioli – you say great contrast of textures, but neither from your description, or the picture I can visualize what that might be?
    Lemongrass curry powder tofu – OK, I can see that – interesting choice of ingredients and flavorings
    Beetroot peanut butter tikki – with no picture, I am unclear whether you were waxing nostalgic about the Kolkata vegetable chops or about this dish.

    From the pictures, I am most interested in the pepper steamed foi gras! Was it seared first, and then steamed? Was there additional peppers than just seasoning before searing?
    The other interesting dishes are from Chef Kunal – the truffle and mushroom gelauti looks gorgeous, and the haleem kebab sounds very novel. Is it possible to get recipes for them?

    Bon appetit!

  • Suvro, I am amplified the vegetarian bits a bit more in the post. Hopefully that whill help

    I am afraid I would not be able to explain the cooking processes and recipes though

  • suvro says:

    OK – I get a better sense.
    So the khandvi ravioli had a nut filling? I think the use of khandvi instead of pasta is itself a brilliant idea. But if it had a nut filling, instead of cheese, then that amplifies the creative index.

    Good riffs on vegetarian fusion cuisine is so rare that any glimpses like these are valuable. I thought with your friendship with Chef Kunal, you may be able to tease out some ideas on how he cooks those two dishes, no? I say everyone should eat well, and so while he need not give the exact recipes, tips would be highly appreciated!

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