Note: ‘The opening of the eyes’ is taken from the name of one of the treatises by the 13th century Japanese Buddhist monk, Nicherin Daishonin
Warning: A very long post follows. Please let me know about copy errors which are likely in such a long post
I hated Dubai after my first trip to the city
in 2009.
in 2009.
There I said it.
It was unbearably hot that September. We
couldn’t go out . We had to run from my aunt’s house, where we were put up, to
Dubai’s many malls seeking refuge in the air-condtioning. On that trip were on
our way back from Switzerland. After the natural beauty and quaint charm of Switzerland, Dubai seemed too synthetic to me. It seemed like we
were in the sets of the TV show Jetsons. An artificial, futuristic, soul-less bubble.
couldn’t go out . We had to run from my aunt’s house, where we were put up, to
Dubai’s many malls seeking refuge in the air-condtioning. On that trip were on
our way back from Switzerland. After the natural beauty and quaint charm of Switzerland, Dubai seemed too synthetic to me. It seemed like we
were in the sets of the TV show Jetsons. An artificial, futuristic, soul-less bubble.
I left Dubai very unimpressed and with no
desire to return.
desire to return.
Since then my aunt, who lives in Dubai
tried to tell me about its charms and assured me that the city is very
different and pretty in winter. Over time I also got to meet people like Dubai
based food blogger Ishita (she blogs at Ishita Unblogged) on twitter who would tell me about interesting things
happening in Dubai. Then our friends Jean and Brian moved to Dubai from Mumbai
and said that they were loving it there.
tried to tell me about its charms and assured me that the city is very
different and pretty in winter. Over time I also got to meet people like Dubai
based food blogger Ishita (she blogs at Ishita Unblogged) on twitter who would tell me about interesting things
happening in Dubai. Then our friends Jean and Brian moved to Dubai from Mumbai
and said that they were loving it there.
Four years after my first trip there it was finally time to return to Dubai. I decided to stop at Dubai on my way back from the
Madrid Fusion festival at Madrid. The idea was to spend my birthday at Dubai. This is something K and I
had been planning for a while. My aunt and Ishita assured me that the weather
would be pleasant in early February. Things worked out beautifully as an office
trip to Dubai came up for K around the same days and she could join me. It was as if Dubai was calling us back.
Madrid Fusion festival at Madrid. The idea was to spend my birthday at Dubai. This is something K and I
had been planning for a while. My aunt and Ishita assured me that the weather
would be pleasant in early February. Things worked out beautifully as an office
trip to Dubai came up for K around the same days and she could join me. It was as if Dubai was calling us back.
Exploring Dubai’s local eats
So there I was at Dubai, a couple of nights
before my birthday, on my way back from Madrid. I encountered my only false
note of the trip after landing when the taxi traffic control guys directed me
to the more expensive cabs (the gleaming black sedans) when I came out of the
airport. This little airport scam fallen for it was time to begin my second
Dubai innings.
before my birthday, on my way back from Madrid. I encountered my only false
note of the trip after landing when the taxi traffic control guys directed me
to the more expensive cabs (the gleaming black sedans) when I came out of the
airport. This little airport scam fallen for it was time to begin my second
Dubai innings.
I had returned to Dubai with an open mind
despite my earlier reservations. I was on a mission to seek out its soul which
so eluded me last time.
despite my earlier reservations. I was on a mission to seek out its soul which
so eluded me last time.
When it came to its food, I had a strategy
this time. I would not eat in its malls. I would not eat in the Dubai outposts
of Western chains. Instead I would go out seeking the small, local places of
Dubai where you could get food from the region and where regular folks went to
eat.
this time. I would not eat in its malls. I would not eat in the Dubai outposts
of Western chains. Instead I would go out seeking the small, local places of
Dubai where you could get food from the region and where regular folks went to
eat.
And that’s exactly what I did over our four
days in Dubai. The weather was nice this time (early Feb). One could actually walk in the open during
the day and sitting outdoors in the evenings was very pleasant. This was a
different Dubai from what I experienced in my earlier trip (in September).
days in Dubai. The weather was nice this time (early Feb). One could actually walk in the open during
the day and sitting outdoors in the evenings was very pleasant. This was a
different Dubai from what I experienced in my earlier trip (in September).
This time we largely ignored its gleaming
malls and precocious towers and headed to the older parts of Dubai. We spent
time at the ‘old new town of Bur Dubai’ which is where we stayed with my aunt
and her family. From what I understand this is where the development of Dubai
had begun in the 70s.
malls and precocious towers and headed to the older parts of Dubai. We spent
time at the ‘old new town of Bur Dubai’ which is where we stayed with my aunt
and her family. From what I understand this is where the development of Dubai
had begun in the 70s.
We went to the much recommended Al Ostadi
restaurant here. An Iranian restaurant which was established in the 1978 making
it one of the oldest restaurants in Dubai. The menu is simple. Lentil based
soups and an array of chicken and mutton kebabs (no beef I think). The kebabs
are served with salads and rotis. If you want, you can get rice with a dollop
of butter (chello). It’s a fairly basic restaurant in terms of seating.
restaurant here. An Iranian restaurant which was established in the 1978 making
it one of the oldest restaurants in Dubai. The menu is simple. Lentil based
soups and an array of chicken and mutton kebabs (no beef I think). The kebabs
are served with salads and rotis. If you want, you can get rice with a dollop
of butter (chello). It’s a fairly basic restaurant in terms of seating.
 |
| mixed kebab platter at Al Ostadi |
In the tradition of the older restaurants
of Dubai the main section is for men. There is a small separate annexe which is
meant for ‘families’. We went there as that’s where women can sit. We ordered
the mix platter so that we could sample all the kebabs. I quite liked the dry
lime and the yogurt marinated kebabs which were fairly juicy and well
flavoured.
of Dubai the main section is for men. There is a small separate annexe which is
meant for ‘families’. We went there as that’s where women can sit. We ordered
the mix platter so that we could sample all the kebabs. I quite liked the dry
lime and the yogurt marinated kebabs which were fairly juicy and well
flavoured.
I asked K if she, as a Parsi, could feel a
connect at this Iranian restaurant. Turned out that she didn’t. The kebabs were
from Islamic Iran. They belonged to an Iran from a time after the Parsis had left for India who, I
guess, since then have turned more Indian
than Persian.
connect at this Iranian restaurant. Turned out that she didn’t. The kebabs were
from Islamic Iran. They belonged to an Iran from a time after the Parsis had left for India who, I
guess, since then have turned more Indian
than Persian.
I later found out that Al Ostadi is a bit
like Mumbai’s Bade Miya. It is highly talked about and recommended to tourists
as a place for local, grunge food. However, locals in the know don’t always have high an
opinion of Al Ostadi it seemed. Just as I probably wouldn’t send someone to Bade Miya in Mumbai. ‘There is better’ we will say.
like Mumbai’s Bade Miya. It is highly talked about and recommended to tourists
as a place for local, grunge food. However, locals in the know don’t always have high an
opinion of Al Ostadi it seemed. Just as I probably wouldn’t send someone to Bade Miya in Mumbai. ‘There is better’ we will say.
Still, for the sense of history (toned down a few notches in the sterile family
room), if not the kebabs, Al Ostadi (spelt as Ustadi on the shop front) is definitely worth a visit.
room), if not the kebabs, Al Ostadi (spelt as Ustadi on the shop front) is definitely worth a visit.
Many say that Dubai has been built on the
backs of workers from India and Pakistan. This gets reflected in the many
Indian and Pakistani restaurants here.
One day we went to an Indian chaat shop near the Dubai Museum as my aunt wanted pani puri. The kind gentleman gave us three free sukha puris after we were done with our 6 pani puris (about Rs 60 for 6 when converted)
I wanted to try out some Pakistani food
here as the chances of doing that in India were non existent.
backs of workers from India and Pakistan. This gets reflected in the many
Indian and Pakistani restaurants here.
One day we went to an Indian chaat shop near the Dubai Museum as my aunt wanted pani puri. The kind gentleman gave us three free sukha puris after we were done with our 6 pani puris (about Rs 60 for 6 when converted)
I wanted to try out some Pakistani food
here as the chances of doing that in India were non existent.
Our interaction with the smiling Pakistani
cabbie who told us ‘we are friends, it’s the politicians who create problems
between our countries’ was the precursor to the lovely times we had during our Pakistani
explorations.
cabbie who told us ‘we are friends, it’s the politicians who create problems
between our countries’ was the precursor to the lovely times we had during our Pakistani
explorations.
On my birthday, my uncle took us to
Bar.B.Q Tonight, a buzzing Pakistani place where the buffet showcased almost
every legendary Pakistani dish from chapli kebabs to Behari kebabs to biryani
and Kabuli rice and roghni naan and lots in between.
Bar.B.Q Tonight, a buzzing Pakistani place where the buffet showcased almost
every legendary Pakistani dish from chapli kebabs to Behari kebabs to biryani
and Kabuli rice and roghni naan and lots in between.
 |
| K with my family in Dubai, my aunt, uncle and cousin outside Bar.B.Q |
K and I went one afternoon to the branch of
Ravi which is opposite the Burjuman Mall. Ravi is a much recommended Pakistani
restaurant chain in Dubai. The common refrain about Ravi from people who told
me about it was ‘the food is oily but tastes great’.
Ravi which is opposite the Burjuman Mall. Ravi is a much recommended Pakistani
restaurant chain in Dubai. The common refrain about Ravi from people who told
me about it was ‘the food is oily but tastes great’.
Ravi, opposite Burjuman, too has a family
and a regular section like Al Ostadi. The aircon was not very powerful and we
were very feeling rather hot during lunch.
and a regular section like Al Ostadi. The aircon was not very powerful and we
were very feeling rather hot during lunch.
We had
delicious nihari and haleem here. Both were listed under breakfast but
were available during lunch too. The meats in both were very tender and we
later found out that the dishes were beef dishes. The menu doesn’t specify beef. Not an issue for us but if you have religious restrictions then its best to check in advance
about what goes into the dishes here.
delicious nihari and haleem here. Both were listed under breakfast but
were available during lunch too. The meats in both were very tender and we
later found out that the dishes were beef dishes. The menu doesn’t specify beef. Not an issue for us but if you have religious restrictions then its best to check in advance
about what goes into the dishes here.
 |
| the smiling Pakistani waitstaff at Ravi |
Our young smiling waiter from Pakistan
(whose mother had apparently told him to avoid beef as he was becoming ‘fatty’) recommended a
chicken Peshawari to us. This turned out to be an outstanding pick. The curd,
green, chilly, pepper and tomato based sauce was slightly tangy, packed with
flavours and very alluring and the chicken was quite juicy too. Both K and I
loved this dish and agreed that we preferred it to various North Indian curries
that we have had in the past, cousins of the Pakistani fare. The nihari reminded me of old Delhi and the Haleem of Hyderabadi restaurants of India.
(whose mother had apparently told him to avoid beef as he was becoming ‘fatty’) recommended a
chicken Peshawari to us. This turned out to be an outstanding pick. The curd,
green, chilly, pepper and tomato based sauce was slightly tangy, packed with
flavours and very alluring and the chicken was quite juicy too. Both K and I
loved this dish and agreed that we preferred it to various North Indian curries
that we have had in the past, cousins of the Pakistani fare. The nihari reminded me of old Delhi and the Haleem of Hyderabadi restaurants of India.
 |
| That’s the Peshawari in the middle, nihar on top, haleem at the bottom |
The food was a bit rich though for me and I had to
follow it with a toilet break at home.
follow it with a toilet break at home.
I headed out to a Dubai food walk in the evening. The walk was conducted by Arva Ahmed of
Frying Pan Adventures (twitter handle). Arva and I had connected through Ishita on twitter and
Arva very kindly offered to take me on a walk as a birthday gift.
Frying Pan Adventures (twitter handle). Arva and I had connected through Ishita on twitter and
Arva very kindly offered to take me on a walk as a birthday gift.
I joined Arva on her Old Dubai walk. Arva
and her sister conduct the walks for their company, Frying Pan Adventures. Arva’s family is
from Hyderabad in India. Arva has grown up in old Dubai and loves the city from
the bottom of her heart. She had gone to the US to study and then came back to
Dubai where she and her sister set up Frying Pan Adventures. Her aim was to help people like
me discover the soul of Dubai that was often hidden behind its glistening malls
and buildings.
and her sister conduct the walks for their company, Frying Pan Adventures. Arva’s family is
from Hyderabad in India. Arva has grown up in old Dubai and loves the city from
the bottom of her heart. She had gone to the US to study and then came back to
Dubai where she and her sister set up Frying Pan Adventures. Her aim was to help people like
me discover the soul of Dubai that was often hidden behind its glistening malls
and buildings.
Arva on the walk was articulate, witty,
energetic and informative and made our group, which consisted of people from
all over the world, fall in love with Dubai.
energetic and informative and made our group, which consisted of people from
all over the world, fall in love with Dubai.
In the walk we went to a Palestinian
Jordanian place called Qwaider Al Nabulsi, (Murraqqabat
Street) where we had Palestinian styled falafels (much
better than what I’ve had in India) while Arva told us about how different
Arabic countries staked their claims on falafel and hummus.
Jordanian place called Qwaider Al Nabulsi, (Murraqqabat
Street) where we had Palestinian styled falafels (much
better than what I’ve had in India) while Arva told us about how different
Arabic countries staked their claims on falafel and hummus.
 |
| Arva Ahmed of Frying Pan Tours |
 |
| falafel |
We then had a cheese and ghee and sugar
syrup based fried dessert called Knafeh which was made in front of us. I was in
for a little surprise once the knafeh was made as Arva took out a candle, put
it on the knafeh and made me blow out the candle and cut the kanafeh while
people sang happy birthday to me.
syrup based fried dessert called Knafeh which was made in front of us. I was in
for a little surprise once the knafeh was made as Arva took out a candle, put
it on the knafeh and made me blow out the candle and cut the kanafeh while
people sang happy birthday to me.
I felt truly blessed to have such an international
birthday celebration. The sugary cheesy crunch of the Knafeh was addictive.
birthday celebration. The sugary cheesy crunch of the Knafeh was addictive.
 |
| Cutting my knafeh cake with Arva |
 |
| knafeh |
We then went to an Egyptian restaurant called
Soarik at Al Riggah Road where we had
feteer. This is like an Egyptian pizza except that that toppings of mozzarella
and pastrami are put stuffed inside the pizza and not put on it. This tasted
delicious.
Soarik at Al Riggah Road where we had
feteer. This is like an Egyptian pizza except that that toppings of mozzarella
and pastrami are put stuffed inside the pizza and not put on it. This tasted
delicious.
 |
| feteer |
Next on was an Emirati restaurant called Al Tawasol, near the Clock Tower, where the recipes are given by an Emirati
mama. She doesn’t come herself to the restaurant though it seems as men work there and runs the place from home through her sons. Here
you sit on the floor on carpets and eat. There is a large hall where men sit
and eat and partitioned family sections for groups like ours with women.
mama. She doesn’t come herself to the restaurant though it seems as men work there and runs the place from home through her sons. Here
you sit on the floor on carpets and eat. There is a large hall where men sit
and eat and partitioned family sections for groups like ours with women.
 |
| machboos and salona |
We had Shorbat Adas (orange-split
lentil soup), Emirati Chicken Machboos (chicken cooked in an Emirati blend of
roasted spices or besar and with the rice simmered along with the
chicken similar to a Parsi mutton pulao), Laham Salona (very tender lamb curry with the traditional blend of Emirati
spices) served over rice; Harees (traditional meat and wheat porridge laced
with clarified butter or ghee), and Laban (drinking yoghurt).
lentil soup), Emirati Chicken Machboos (chicken cooked in an Emirati blend of
roasted spices or besar and with the rice simmered along with the
chicken similar to a Parsi mutton pulao), Laham Salona (very tender lamb curry with the traditional blend of Emirati
spices) served over rice; Harees (traditional meat and wheat porridge laced
with clarified butter or ghee), and Laban (drinking yoghurt).
The machboos and the
salona were placed on a large thaal (plate) similar to the Bohri thal in India.
Arva then portioned out the food and served it to us on our plates. I was
engrossed by her talk about the simplicity of Bedouin dishes and of how the
introduction of spices and even rice to Emirati food was thanks to the
influence of Indian traders in the middle ages.
It was also thanks to Arva that I got to know that Emiratis love fish but that one shouldn’t order fish now as the local fish, hamor, is a victim of over farming.
salona were placed on a large thaal (plate) similar to the Bohri thal in India.
Arva then portioned out the food and served it to us on our plates. I was
engrossed by her talk about the simplicity of Bedouin dishes and of how the
introduction of spices and even rice to Emirati food was thanks to the
influence of Indian traders in the middle ages.
It was also thanks to Arva that I got to know that Emiratis love fish but that one shouldn’t order fish now as the local fish, hamor, is a victim of over farming.
Arva really knows how to spell a yarn as we
saw in our last stop, a sweet shop calle Samadi Sweets (Murraggabat Street) Arva told us about the history of coffee in the Arab world and
the social mores associated with it’s drinking while she poured us coffee
(called gahwa and flavoured with cardamom) to have with Karabij (pistachio cookies with the soapwart cream) in
the shop, and Ma’amoul (spiced date cookie) and Bukaj (the cashew nut-stuffed
Baklava pouch). Over here I saw sweet called zulbia
which looked our Indian jalebis which Arva said was influenced by India.
Arva later sent a mail detailing out what and where we ate in the walk and gave some useful tips on where to eat during the rest of our trip.
saw in our last stop, a sweet shop calle Samadi Sweets (Murraggabat Street) Arva told us about the history of coffee in the Arab world and
the social mores associated with it’s drinking while she poured us coffee
(called gahwa and flavoured with cardamom) to have with Karabij (pistachio cookies with the soapwart cream) in
the shop, and Ma’amoul (spiced date cookie) and Bukaj (the cashew nut-stuffed
Baklava pouch). Over here I saw sweet called zulbia
which looked our Indian jalebis which Arva said was influenced by India.
Arva later sent a mail detailing out what and where we ate in the walk and gave some useful tips on where to eat during the rest of our trip.
Click here to see all the pictures from the walk
 |
| with my aunt on the abra |
 |
| at the spice souk |
Arva recommended eating places for the rest
of our trip. The next day my aunt, K and I took the abra (fishing boat) to the
spice and gold souks and then headed back to the textile souk in search of
Creekside Café which both Arva and Ishita had recommended. This is a café
located on the pretty creek and the nice weather meant that we could sit by the
creek and have our lunch. The setting was really picturesque.
of our trip. The next day my aunt, K and I took the abra (fishing boat) to the
spice and gold souks and then headed back to the textile souk in search of
Creekside Café which both Arva and Ishita had recommended. This is a café
located on the pretty creek and the nice weather meant that we could sit by the
creek and have our lunch. The setting was really picturesque.
Creekside Café, I am told, is run by two
Emirati brothers who are trying to bring in Emirati cooking influences in a
modern format. We had an Emirati slow cooked lamb ouzi (traditionally
cooked under ground) served as a burrito, scrambled eggs with truffles served
as a cylinder in a thin Emirati bread called rgag and a salmon tartare infused with
a tangy Arabian curd based labneh dip. All the food served was not only very
tasty but looked very pretty too. It was a lot more expensive than the old
Dubai eat houses of Ravi and Al Ostadi of course but represented the next stage
of evolution of Emirati food.
Emirati brothers who are trying to bring in Emirati cooking influences in a
modern format. We had an Emirati slow cooked lamb ouzi (traditionally
cooked under ground) served as a burrito, scrambled eggs with truffles served
as a cylinder in a thin Emirati bread called rgag and a salmon tartare infused with
a tangy Arabian curd based labneh dip. All the food served was not only very
tasty but looked very pretty too. It was a lot more expensive than the old
Dubai eat houses of Ravi and Al Ostadi of course but represented the next stage
of evolution of Emirati food.
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| scrambled eggs |
 |
| lamb ouzzi burritos |
 |
| scrambled eggs infused with labneh |
If Al Ostadi is their Bade Miya than
Creekside Café is perhaps their equivalent of Indian Accent.
Creekside Café is perhaps their equivalent of Indian Accent.
Lebanese now
Our last dinner in Dubai was with family
again at the Lebanese Village Kitchen under the open skies at Bur Dubai where
we had a very relaxed meal starting with Lebanese dips of hummus, tabbouleh and
baba ganoush.
again at the Lebanese Village Kitchen under the open skies at Bur Dubai where
we had a very relaxed meal starting with Lebanese dips of hummus, tabbouleh and
baba ganoush.
As tutored by Avra and approved of by my
uncle, I ordered an arayes. This is Turkish keema (minced meat) stuffed grilled bread similar
to the Indian paratha which tasted really amazing.
uncle, I ordered an arayes. This is Turkish keema (minced meat) stuffed grilled bread similar
to the Indian paratha which tasted really amazing.
 |
| arayes |
Then there was the kebab khash koush, another
Lebanese dish from Avra’s mail to me on what to order and where to eat. This is
a lamb mince meat ball dish served in a tomato gravy. The kebabs were a bit dry though or perhaps we were too full by then.
Lebanese dish from Avra’s mail to me on what to order and where to eat. This is
a lamb mince meat ball dish served in a tomato gravy. The kebabs were a bit dry though or perhaps we were too full by then.
 |
| lamb khash koush |
One dish that sucked here was the brain dish
which lacked spice. I think we Indians do a better job of cooking offal as
Anthony Bourdain had once said in the Mumbai based episode of No Reservations.
which lacked spice. I think we Indians do a better job of cooking offal as
Anthony Bourdain had once said in the Mumbai based episode of No Reservations.
My Pakistani, Emirati, Egyptian, Lebanese,
Palestinian and Jordanian meals in Dubai made me realize that Dubai is in a unique place where it can position itself as a destination to enjoy food from all
over the Arabic world and West Asia.
Palestinian and Jordanian meals in Dubai made me realize that Dubai is in a unique place where it can position itself as a destination to enjoy food from all
over the Arabic world and West Asia.
Of course, as in the metros of India, there
is more interest and excitement in opening restaurants that offer Western food
in Dubai too than in local food.
is more interest and excitement in opening restaurants that offer Western food
in Dubai too than in local food.
Ventures like Creekside Café show us that a
balance is possible.
balance is possible.
A Bengali birthday treat
While I have told you about Dubai’s Arabic culinary story one can’t ignore its immigrants from other countries and how they have come together here to live their lives in harmony. So here is the story of the meal cooked by Ishita, a Bengali, and her Filipino cook, Mela.
Ishita very kindly picked K and me up on my birthday and drove us
past the very impressive sculpted beaches of the Marina and down the man made
palm fronds to her house where we joined her husband Subir and her two
daughters for a lovely meal.
past the very impressive sculpted beaches of the Marina and down the man made
palm fronds to her house where we joined her husband Subir and her two
daughters for a lovely meal.
Ishita’s Filipino cook, whom she calls Lady M, laid out an
amazing Bengali spread for our lunch. Ishita had trained M to cook Bengali
food. The sight and smells of the prawn topped churmur and air fried vegetable
chop starters followed by chholar daal, begun bhaaja, alur dom, mangsher jhol and a
dreamy shorshe bhaapa salmon made my feel as if my grandmother had come and
cooked a special lunch for me on my birthday.
amazing Bengali spread for our lunch. Ishita had trained M to cook Bengali
food. The sight and smells of the prawn topped churmur and air fried vegetable
chop starters followed by chholar daal, begun bhaaja, alur dom, mangsher jhol and a
dreamy shorshe bhaapa salmon made my feel as if my grandmother had come and
cooked a special lunch for me on my birthday.
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| mangsher jhol |
 |
| alur dom |
 |
| begun bhaja |
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| shorshe salmon |
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| chutney |
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| Ishita with the lady M (in the middle) who cooked the meal |
I was touched that Ishita took so much time out from putting the Food e Mag dbx online food magazine that she edits to bed to host us
for lunch.
for lunch.
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| with Ishita |
 |
| the lovely mishti doi birthday cheesecake |
Ishita even made a lovely cheesecake textured
mishti doi and put candles in the mishti doi pots for me to blow out to
celebrate my birthday and showered me with a bagful of foodie gifts.
More pics of the lunch with Ishita
mishti doi and put candles in the mishti doi pots for me to blow out to
celebrate my birthday and showered me with a bagful of foodie gifts.
More pics of the lunch with Ishita
I have rarely felt as loved as I felt this
time in Dubai this time.
time in Dubai this time.
We
did eat in a ‘mall chain’ café twice in the trip. This was at Pauls, the
French café, at Burjuman Mall, where the croissants make for a delightful
breakfast and the cappuccino is pretty good too.
did eat in a ‘mall chain’ café twice in the trip. This was at Pauls, the
French café, at Burjuman Mall, where the croissants make for a delightful
breakfast and the cappuccino is pretty good too.
Disclaimer:
I was a guest of Frying Pan Adventures on the food walk. This is their website and I would highly recommend their walks
I was a guest of Frying Pan Adventures on the food walk. This is their website and I would highly recommend their walks
Ohhh! To go to the arabic and turkish and iranian places and eat their food! My friends miss Mumbai so much that I havent yet seen this side of Dubai and I have to before I decide I do not like it! Thanks Kalyan!
What an epic post… I am so happy that both of you loved your stay in Dubai this time… so it's the foodie love that makes all the difference, what say? Thank you for spending your birthday with us… and the compliments that you have given is really touching. Mela is too happy… Dubai is such that the Bengali in me has turned Filipina, while she has almost become a Bengali. Can't wait to meet the both of you again – Meena Bazaar or Bohri Mohalla… it's been good meeting you. Not that I ever felt that we hadn't met before!
I've always known that Dubai would be a great place to eat in, thanks to my numerous friends there. It's nice to see actual pictures and proof of that fact. The Emirati place that Arva took you too sounds most exciting. It's a place I would like to try out if I ever visit Dubai.
hope you enjoy them while the weather is still nice
thanks for being such a wonderful host and ambassador for your city. It is thanks to people like you that I enjoyed my trip so much
that Emirati place was really special. you should get Arva to take you there
This was an excellent read, Kalyan. My Jan trip to the UAE was my first and honestly, I was just looking for much needed time off from work. When I returned, everyone asked me "Did you do the desert safari?"; "Ski Dubai?"; " Ferrari World?" etc… And my reply would be NO. I just wanted to relax. And all I could think of fondly is all the food I tried. From Iranian to Italian to Arabic to Turkish to Lebanese to Japanese and even South Indian… Dubai was perfect. Sadly missed out on Ravi. Next time for sure.
PS: I tried the Knafeh at Samadi. Really liked it.
Hey Jayashree, so glad you liked it and thanks for the Al Ostadi suggestion. Yes, no ski dubai or ferrari world or desert safari at our end too
beautiful pictures and lovely narration as always ..
loved the dubai scene and local eateries .. we have visited these Mediterranean places in US ..the food is awesome 🙂 flavorful and very tangy…But dubai I guess is the HUB ..
Kalyan, you made discovering the ''other'' side of Dubai a goal, and you've accomplished it and more! I'm so honoured to see Frying Pan make the list, it really was such a delight to serve you. You were open-minded and positive about the experience, something that's often hard to do when you do your own walks back home. But I find that our community of food-walkers is just that – a community – and I'm blessed to have made your acquaintance (all thanks to Ishita!). When I'm next in Mumbai, the first thing I'll be doing is signing up for your food walk. I can't wait to learn from you and see the city from your eyes!
Absolutely enjoyed reading about your foodie adventures in Dubai, once you get past the glitz and glam, there's some real gems. And who better to show you around than the pros Ishita and Arva 🙂
Harman actually i found the Lebanese food to be on the tangy side too
Arva, i was absolutely privileges to see your city through your eyes and your walk was one of the best I have attended and I have attended many great ones. It is indeed fantastic to be a part of such a wonderful community. Here's wishing you all the best
Thanks Nancy and you are right, Ishita and Arva's love for Dubai is infectious
In Dubai for 3 years now and have only eaten few of these dishes mentioned. The souk in Deira seems to be an undiscovered treasure. I know what I am doing for the next few months now.