 |
| The Chief Chowzters of Asia Pacific |
I was in Singapore again a couple of
weekends back which is always a good thing for a food lover.
weekends back which is always a good thing for a food lover.
I was there for the Chowzter Asia’s Fast
Feast Awards 2015. The trip, hosted by Chowzter, turned out to be three days of
great eating. It consisted of a variety of dishes, local and international, street food and high
end, classic eats and new kids on the block which when put together gave an
insight into why Singapore won the ‘Foodiest City in Asia’ awards in the 2015
edition of the Chowzter Asia Awards.
Feast Awards 2015. The trip, hosted by Chowzter, turned out to be three days of
great eating. It consisted of a variety of dishes, local and international, street food and high
end, classic eats and new kids on the block which when put together gave an
insight into why Singapore won the ‘Foodiest City in Asia’ awards in the 2015
edition of the Chowzter Asia Awards.
Our group was an interesting mix of food enthusiasts, bloggers, restaurant owners, food walk hosts, writers representing different cities in Asia and Australia and it was great meeting them, learning from their experiences and getting to know their cities.
I was representing Mumbai as its local Chief Chowzter.
My first lunch of the trip showed that how you can
score a good lunch in Singapore just by serendipity. I had checked into our
hotel, the pretty nifty, modern and luxurious, Carlton Central near Chinatown
and then headed out looking for lunch with my friend Kaniska, who is the Chief
Chowzter from Kolkata, and Shibaji who is the CFO of Chowzter.
score a good lunch in Singapore just by serendipity. I had checked into our
hotel, the pretty nifty, modern and luxurious, Carlton Central near Chinatown
and then headed out looking for lunch with my friend Kaniska, who is the Chief
Chowzter from Kolkata, and Shibaji who is the CFO of Chowzter.
There is so much good food around in
Singapore that it turned out that all we had to do was cross the road in search
of lunch. There were a couple of shops where people were queuing up to eat, always a good sign, and we decided to
join them. Both looked like very basic places, non-airconditioned, a few tables
and chairs at the centre. I decided to go with the shop which had a Chinese signboard with YT written in English. Would be even more authentic, I quipped.
Singapore that it turned out that all we had to do was cross the road in search
of lunch. There were a couple of shops where people were queuing up to eat, always a good sign, and we decided to
join them. Both looked like very basic places, non-airconditioned, a few tables
and chairs at the centre. I decided to go with the shop which had a Chinese signboard with YT written in English. Would be even more authentic, I quipped.
People went to the counter and chose curries laid out
there and were served rice with this. You were charged according to the number
of curries and vegetables that you took. I later got to know through twitter these
places are called ‘economical rice centres’. Three of us ate for 14 Sing
Dollars and the food was pretty good. I looked around and saw quite a few
people eating a pork belly curry and chose that. Turned out to be really
lovely. The pork was soft and the soy based sauce had a lovely mix of salt and
sweet and combined well with the rice and completely overshadowed the rather
bland bokchoy that I also took.
there and were served rice with this. You were charged according to the number
of curries and vegetables that you took. I later got to know through twitter these
places are called ‘economical rice centres’. Three of us ate for 14 Sing
Dollars and the food was pretty good. I looked around and saw quite a few
people eating a pork belly curry and chose that. Turned out to be really
lovely. The pork was soft and the soy based sauce had a lovely mix of salt and
sweet and combined well with the rice and completely overshadowed the rather
bland bokchoy that I also took.
 |
| pork belly with rice |
 |
| With Kaniska and Shibajida |
Our dinner was far from ‘economical’ and
instead of Chinese was modern Japanese. We ate at a newly opened place called
Izy near Club Street. The scallops in the sashimi (no sushi in our meal), the
fried chicken with mayo (best in Singapore claimed the friendly maître d), the
wagyu with truffle (tender meat infused with heady flavours) were dishes that were bursting with flavour and left us breathless with delight.
instead of Chinese was modern Japanese. We ate at a newly opened place called
Izy near Club Street. The scallops in the sashimi (no sushi in our meal), the
fried chicken with mayo (best in Singapore claimed the friendly maître d), the
wagyu with truffle (tender meat infused with heady flavours) were dishes that were bursting with flavour and left us breathless with delight.
 |
| scallop sashimi |
 |
| Japanese fried chicken |
 |
| Wagyu with truffles |
Between the lunch and the dinner we saw the range
of meals one can have in Singapore in terms of budget and cuisine which helped the city live up to the Foodiest City billing.
of meals one can have in Singapore in terms of budget and cuisine which helped the city live up to the Foodiest City billing.
We walked down Club Street near Ann Seong that Friday
night to our hotel. This street is closed to vehicular traffic at night. It is
full of restaurants that lay out tables in the middle of the road converting
the street into a party zone at night. Very chic, very international, very
buzzy and a contrast to the tranquility of the night lanes of Chinatown down
the road. Club Street on weekend nights seems to debunk notions of Singapore
being a quiet, boring city.
night to our hotel. This street is closed to vehicular traffic at night. It is
full of restaurants that lay out tables in the middle of the road converting
the street into a party zone at night. Very chic, very international, very
buzzy and a contrast to the tranquility of the night lanes of Chinatown down
the road. Club Street on weekend nights seems to debunk notions of Singapore
being a quiet, boring city.
 |
| club st on friday night |
We had Christine, who is on twitter as @camembaru, the Chief Chowzter for Singapore talking us through her city during the trip. Here’s her blog.
We went to Tian Tian at Maxwell City Centre for the famous chicken rice which had won Bourdain over. Like in my last trip, this time too I went back after the first visit to have another bite of this chicken rice. That’s how much I love the fragrant rice and juicy chicken served here.
 |
| Tian Tian chicken rice |
We went to the famous Sungei Road laksa
which I had been to on my last visit too. They laksas had gone rather cold this time after the 25 of us in the group photographed them and I felt that the proportion
of noodles to the soup was a bit too skewed. Christine said that the noodles are broken in advance so that they can be eaten with a spoon. I would have enjoyed it more had there been more of the
broth. The huge queues, outside the stall, bore testimony to the popularity of
the laksa though. I had quite enjoyed this in my previous visit.
which I had been to on my last visit too. They laksas had gone rather cold this time after the 25 of us in the group photographed them and I felt that the proportion
of noodles to the soup was a bit too skewed. Christine said that the noodles are broken in advance so that they can be eaten with a spoon. I would have enjoyed it more had there been more of the
broth. The huge queues, outside the stall, bore testimony to the popularity of
the laksa though. I had quite enjoyed this in my previous visit.
 |
| Sungei Road laksa |
 |
| two many photographers spoil the laksa |
 |
| Sungei road laksa |
Christine took us to a couple of places
which are not as famous as Tian Tian and Sungei Road laksa.
which are not as famous as Tian Tian and Sungei Road laksa.
One was to Kway Guat Huat where popiah is said to have
been introduced to Singapore. Popiah is a version of rice paper rolls. We
went through a demonstration on how to make these conducted by the original owner’s daughter and current owner of the place. I can’t say that I am a big popiah
fan.
been introduced to Singapore. Popiah is a version of rice paper rolls. We
went through a demonstration on how to make these conducted by the original owner’s daughter and current owner of the place. I can’t say that I am a big popiah
fan.
 |
| popiah demo |
I found the neighbouring area with a number of Malay Muslim shops, traditional bakeries and little restaurants very interesting and different from the glass and chrome of modern Singapore.
This is indeed a city of contrasts where
the old and new still coexist. Whether peacefully or not is tough for an outsider to
say.
the old and new still coexist. Whether peacefully or not is tough for an outsider to
say.
We also went to the Fishball Story at the
Golden Mile food court. This is quite a unique place as it is run by young, 24
year old, Douglas NG. Douglas NG uses his grandma’s recipes to make fish balls
with swordtail fish and doesn’t add any flour to the fishballs. He starts work at 4 am every day
and continues till sold out in the evening. The fish balls are very flavourful
and I loved the spicy sambal hit of the flat noodles it is served with.
Golden Mile food court. This is quite a unique place as it is run by young, 24
year old, Douglas NG. Douglas NG uses his grandma’s recipes to make fish balls
with swordtail fish and doesn’t add any flour to the fishballs. He starts work at 4 am every day
and continues till sold out in the evening. The fish balls are very flavourful
and I loved the spicy sambal hit of the flat noodles it is served with.
What
makes Douglas unique is that he is one of the few young people who works in a
hawker centre. If you look at the reasonably priced street food options in
Singapore, you will see that most of these are run by elderly folks. There are
hardly any young folks who want to enter into this tough trade it seems.
makes Douglas unique is that he is one of the few young people who works in a
hawker centre. If you look at the reasonably priced street food options in
Singapore, you will see that most of these are run by elderly folks. There are
hardly any young folks who want to enter into this tough trade it seems.
 |
| Fishball noodles at Fisball story |
 |
| With Douglas of Fishball story |
This is something which bugs Singapore street food
evangelist, Seetoh, whom we met at a pop up organized by Pepita from Manila in
Singapore. Pepita won the Chowzter award in 2014 and is famous for her lechons
(suckling pigs, stuffed with rice, roasted on a fire pit). I had dreamed of
trying a lechon ever since I got to know about it on one of Bourdain’s shows.
The succulent, delicately flavoured meat with crispy crackling and chubby fat of Pepita’s lechon lived up to my expectations.
evangelist, Seetoh, whom we met at a pop up organized by Pepita from Manila in
Singapore. Pepita won the Chowzter award in 2014 and is famous for her lechons
(suckling pigs, stuffed with rice, roasted on a fire pit). I had dreamed of
trying a lechon ever since I got to know about it on one of Bourdain’s shows.
The succulent, delicately flavoured meat with crispy crackling and chubby fat of Pepita’s lechon lived up to my expectations.
Seetoh told us about how he hopes that the
hawker food ethos of Singapore doesn’t die out.
hawker food ethos of Singapore doesn’t die out.
His passion for street food is truly
admirable.
admirable.
 |
| Pepita from Manila |
 |
| Lechon |
 |
| With the legendary Seetoh |
Another new discovery in the trip was
Roland Restaurant. Going to a seafood restaurant in Singapore is de rigeur when
you come here for a conference. These dinners are multi course events which end with
crab, usually the famous chilli crab for outsiders. The common names in this
circuit are Jumbo, East Coast and No Signboard restaurants. I had not heard of
Roland before.
Roland Restaurant. Going to a seafood restaurant in Singapore is de rigeur when
you come here for a conference. These dinners are multi course events which end with
crab, usually the famous chilli crab for outsiders. The common names in this
circuit are Jumbo, East Coast and No Signboard restaurants. I had not heard of
Roland before.
When we went into this building parking lot
converted into the restaurant I saw that it was full with local families and
there were hardly any tourists around. The folks who run Roland said that they
don’t really fall in the tourist map which possibly explains why I had never heard
of them.
converted into the restaurant I saw that it was full with local families and
there were hardly any tourists around. The folks who run Roland said that they
don’t really fall in the tourist map which possibly explains why I had never heard
of them.
The owners claim that the ketchup based
chilli crab of Singapore was apparently invented by a lady in their family, the
current owner’s grandmother. She had come up with the original recipe according to
the folks at Roland which then, over the years, was embellished with eggs and
an assortment of sauces by other places. The red colour of the dish make Westerners feel good about being
able to tackle chillies. The colour actually comes from ketchup and the dish is
not too spicy.
chilli crab of Singapore was apparently invented by a lady in their family, the
current owner’s grandmother. She had come up with the original recipe according to
the folks at Roland which then, over the years, was embellished with eggs and
an assortment of sauces by other places. The red colour of the dish make Westerners feel good about being
able to tackle chillies. The colour actually comes from ketchup and the dish is
not too spicy.
 |
| Roland |
 |
| Pomfret two ways |
 |
| Chilli crab at Roland |
 |
| The salted yolk crab at Ronald |
I am not a big fan of chilli crab and in
each trip to Singapore am introduced the other local crab preparations which I end up liking better. I am fond of the black pepper crab and quite enjoyed the salted
egg yolk crab with tapioca chips and curry leaves at Roland, that Christine got
us to try.
each trip to Singapore am introduced the other local crab preparations which I end up liking better. I am fond of the black pepper crab and quite enjoyed the salted
egg yolk crab with tapioca chips and curry leaves at Roland, that Christine got
us to try.
Another dish the I really liked at Roland
was the pomfret done two ways. I feel that this dish is the sort that one could
get at Ling’s back home which made me feel very proud about Ling’s.
Incidentally Ling’s does a Singapore chilli crab which local blogger, Sassy Fork, loves. I order the pepper crab
at Ling’s though when I feel indulgent enough to order crabs.
was the pomfret done two ways. I feel that this dish is the sort that one could
get at Ling’s back home which made me feel very proud about Ling’s.
Incidentally Ling’s does a Singapore chilli crab which local blogger, Sassy Fork, loves. I order the pepper crab
at Ling’s though when I feel indulgent enough to order crabs.
The Chowzter Awards function was held at a
very interesting place called Wild Rocket. If Roland is a classic Singaporean
restaurant then Wild Rocket is at the other extreme as it offers what they call
Mod Sin. Here, lawyer turned chef, Willin Low uses Singaporean cooking
principles in modern formats. A bit like a Singaporean equivalent of Manish Arora’s Indian Accent in Delhi
or chef Joy’s Bohemian in Kolkata.
very interesting place called Wild Rocket. If Roland is a classic Singaporean
restaurant then Wild Rocket is at the other extreme as it offers what they call
Mod Sin. Here, lawyer turned chef, Willin Low uses Singaporean cooking
principles in modern formats. A bit like a Singaporean equivalent of Manish Arora’s Indian Accent in Delhi
or chef Joy’s Bohemian in Kolkata.
The seating at Wild Rocket is casual rather than stuffy.
The plating of the dishes are very beautiful and very modern. I was won over by the pomelo
and tiger prawn salad which had a frozen coconut milk dressing which captured
the brilliant flavours of a great laksa. The Chilean sea bass with congee was
pretty good. The Peranakan styled keluak (nut) rice served with a 48 hour slow cooked
beef was a flavourful counterpoint to the robust meat.
The plating of the dishes are very beautiful and very modern. I was won over by the pomelo
and tiger prawn salad which had a frozen coconut milk dressing which captured
the brilliant flavours of a great laksa. The Chilean sea bass with congee was
pretty good. The Peranakan styled keluak (nut) rice served with a 48 hour slow cooked
beef was a flavourful counterpoint to the robust meat.
 |
| Pomelo salad with frozen coconut dressing |
 |
| Wild Rocket |
 |
| Slow cooked beef with rice |
The dinner was a great example of a well
thought through menu which was very international in appearance and
yet very Singaporean at core.
thought through menu which was very international in appearance and
yet very Singaporean at core.
The awards night threw up lot of
interesting winners across categories from Asian and Australia. All the winners
were very distinctive, local restaurants chosen by the Chief Chowzters on the
basis of outstanding dishes served there rather than mere popularity.
interesting winners across categories from Asian and Australia. All the winners
were very distinctive, local restaurants chosen by the Chief Chowzters on the
basis of outstanding dishes served there rather than mere popularity.
You can see the list of winners here.
I was
thrilled to receive the trophy on behalf of Mumbai’s Sneha whose beef fry won in the Tastiest Beef
category. Was an honour to come back to Mumbai and give them the prize.
Hopefully someday we will get to taste it again. It is off the menu now thanks to the beef ban.
thrilled to receive the trophy on behalf of Mumbai’s Sneha whose beef fry won in the Tastiest Beef
category. Was an honour to come back to Mumbai and give them the prize.
Hopefully someday we will get to taste it again. It is off the menu now thanks to the beef ban.
Our last day was a free day and I joined
Kaniska and had our favourite Ya Kun Kaya toast and runny eggs and coffee for
breakfast, shopped like mad at Gap (the only place where clothes seem to fit
me!) and then headed to Muthu’s to once again enjoy the fantastic fish head
curry that I tried out and loved during my previous trip.
Kaniska and had our favourite Ya Kun Kaya toast and runny eggs and coffee for
breakfast, shopped like mad at Gap (the only place where clothes seem to fit
me!) and then headed to Muthu’s to once again enjoy the fantastic fish head
curry that I tried out and loved during my previous trip.
 |
| Ya Kun Kaya toast |
 |
| With Kaniska |
 |
| fish head at Muthu’s |
Well here’s raising a toast to all the
Chowzter Award winners and a big congratulation to Singapore on winning the
Foodiest city award.
Chowzter Award winners and a big congratulation to Singapore on winning the
Foodiest city award.
 |
| The Chief Chowzters of the winning cities |
