With Gaggan
I was lucky enough to be invited to the pre-launch dinner of RaGa by Gaggan in Delhi. My DMs were filled with ‘how was it?’ messages. Understandably, given that this was the first opening by possibly the biggest name in Indian food internationally.
Well, first things first. RaGa is not a duplicate version of Gaggan Bangkok. The latter centres entirely around Gaggan. There, you are exposed to a Broadway-inspired, quasi food theatre, where Gaggan presents food based on his life philosophy and story.
Gaggan with Rydo Anton, Zorawar Kalra and his team plus the editor of Elle Decor
Rydo Anton, Gaggan’s long-term associate, leads RaGa. His initials form the ‘Ra’ of RaGa, while ‘Ga’ comes from Gaggan. Gaggan says Rydo was in his shadow all these years and that now it is his (Gaggan’s) time to be in the shadows.
The meal is 22 courses and has the inimitable Gaggan stamp. He puts flavours at the heart of dishes, questions existing norms and turns them on their head, and creates food which is art, magic realism meant to be admired as much as enjoyed. Which means that he has opened an Indian restaurant in Delhi which does not feature butter chicken!
I would have told you about the faux walnut that you bite into to find jhal muri in your mouth, or what looks like a burnt giant chilli that gives way to a gurgling cheesy stream on biting, or a bhetki patoori which looks like a Parsi patra ni macchi but tastes like the Bengali one (IYKYK). But Gaggan believes mystery, anticipation and surprise are part of the experience. He does not want you to come with preconceived notions.
Did all 22 dishes enthral? Not entirely. But that is the task of a preview, to test things out. I have a moderate (leaning on the higher side) appetite but was stuffed by the time the mains were brought in, which was a shame. I guess they have their reasoning for the number.
Being in the shadows means that you don’t have Gaggan playing the conductor, mesmerising you with the tales behind the food. The service staff takes on the role of adeptly describing the dishes. In my case, it was a young fellow Bengali, Shubhendu.
And what about Rydo? You will find him at the open kitchen, rallying his team, a look of intense concentration on his face.
Gaggan courted controversy recently by imposing a no-photograph policy at Gaggan Bangkok.
You can take pictures at RaGa. Gaggan wryly says that he is one of the stakeholders, the others being chef Rydo and restaurateur Zorawar Kalra, and that the decision was mutually taken. He adds that the interiors — high bare walls, no art or signage, lights focussed on the table, with a two-storied kitchen (open below and prep above) — ensure, as Gaggan puts it, ‘that you have eyes only for the food and the person in front of you.’
All eyes on the food
RaGa is not a place where you go to have a good time, where food is part of the experience. At RaGa, the food is THE experience. It demands reverence. It offers a meal that is special, and makes you feel special.
Does RaGa offer the full Gaggan experience? Not entirely. It does not claim to be so. It has its own identity, and it will be interesting to see how it grows.
