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| Lady at the pass at Ponnusamy Dishing out country chicken curry |
A recent study conducted by the Registrar General of India on eating habits in India had created quite a stir. One of the numbers questioned was the high percentage of non-vegetarianism (89 %) ascribed to Tamil Nadu which otherwise has the image of being an idli dosa eating vegetarian state to many outside the state who are ignorant of the food culture of the state. (You can read about the study here.)
Well, let me tell you that if you love your
meat and fish, then Chennai is the place to head to. That’s what I found out during my recent, albeit short, trip to Chennai.
meat and fish, then Chennai is the place to head to. That’s what I found out during my recent, albeit short, trip to Chennai.
The home of the Chicken 65
This is after all the city
that claims to have invented the chicken 65 which is so popular across South
India. I used to think that the chicken 65 is an Andhra dish as one gets it
quite easily across Hyderabad.
that claims to have invented the chicken 65 which is so popular across South
India. I used to think that the chicken 65 is an Andhra dish as one gets it
quite easily across Hyderabad.
Turns out that there is a restaurant chain
called Buhari in Chennai which claims to have invented the dish, Chicken 65, in 1965.
called Buhari in Chennai which claims to have invented the dish, Chicken 65, in 1965.
We went to
the air-conditioned branch at Velachery which was close to my hotel, the ITC Grand Chola, but far
from Mount Road, the heart of old Chennai, where the original branch of the
restaurant lies. Buhari was established in 1951 in Mount Road.
the air-conditioned branch at Velachery which was close to my hotel, the ITC Grand Chola, but far
from Mount Road, the heart of old Chennai, where the original branch of the
restaurant lies. Buhari was established in 1951 in Mount Road.
Many of the
classic Chennai restaurants have branched out across the city which allows one
to try the food of these restaurants without having to travel across the city.
I don’t know if one misses out a bit of the atmosphere by going to the newer
branches in the suburbs though local food obervers, such as Amit Patnaik, told me
that the dishes taste the same across branches and are usually made in central
kitchens.
classic Chennai restaurants have branched out across the city which allows one
to try the food of these restaurants without having to travel across the city.
I don’t know if one misses out a bit of the atmosphere by going to the newer
branches in the suburbs though local food obervers, such as Amit Patnaik, told me
that the dishes taste the same across branches and are usually made in central
kitchens.
They have a special chicken 65 at Buhari
which is boneless I was told but I went for the ‘original’ one.
which is boneless I was told but I went for the ‘original’ one.
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| Chicken 65 at Buhari |
We were presented with a plate of bright
red coloured chicken on the bone served with slices of lime and raw onion on the side. The chicken was
freshly fried and pretty juicy. A couple of seconds after you began chewing on
the meat, a searing surge of chilli heat came and walloped you at the base of
your throat. I must admit that my tolerance levels for chillies is not very
high and I found the dish rather spicy.
red coloured chicken on the bone served with slices of lime and raw onion on the side. The chicken was
freshly fried and pretty juicy. A couple of seconds after you began chewing on
the meat, a searing surge of chilli heat came and walloped you at the base of
your throat. I must admit that my tolerance levels for chillies is not very
high and I found the dish rather spicy.
You get food high on chillies in
various parts of India including Rajasthan where the weather is hot. The belief
is that spicy food makes you perspire and cools your body in the process and
helps you handle the heat better.
various parts of India including Rajasthan where the weather is hot. The belief
is that spicy food makes you perspire and cools your body in the process and
helps you handle the heat better.
Fresh fish on the beach
Amit Patnaik, my food blogger friend from
Chennai, introduced me to a side of Chennai that I had not heard of. Freshly fried seafood on the beach. One had
heard of places in Kerala where you could get fresh catch to the stalls on the
beach and get it fried. I had no idea that you could get something similar in
Chennai too.
Chennai, introduced me to a side of Chennai that I had not heard of. Freshly fried seafood on the beach. One had
heard of places in Kerala where you could get fresh catch to the stalls on the
beach and get it fried. I had no idea that you could get something similar in
Chennai too.
We went to Chennai’s Besant Nagar beach where
there are shacks that set up at dusk. Some sell bhajjis or vegetables (chilli
peppers, cauliflower, potatoes) deep fried in a thick coat of gram flour
batter.
there are shacks that set up at dusk. Some sell bhajjis or vegetables (chilli
peppers, cauliflower, potatoes) deep fried in a thick coat of gram flour
batter.
Located beside the bhajji stalls are a few stalls which display
marinated seafood such as prawns, lobsters, baby crabs, kingflish slices, whole
pomfrets. The stalls are run by men and when you place your order there are
women who come and take the fish from inside and fry the fish on a flat wok with
more spices.
marinated seafood such as prawns, lobsters, baby crabs, kingflish slices, whole
pomfrets. The stalls are run by men and when you place your order there are
women who come and take the fish from inside and fry the fish on a flat wok with
more spices.
I had a plate of fried prawns, baby crabs
and a medium sized red snapper. All of
which cost Rs 180 (June 2016).
and a medium sized red snapper. All of
which cost Rs 180 (June 2016).
You sit on plastic chairs kept on the sand in front
of the stall while stray dogs come and snuggle up to you. Amit looked on amused
as I did a Periscope live video, then shot a video on my phone for YouTube and
Facebook and then a picture for Twitter and Instagram before eating. All part
of the eating experience for me and this way I eat a bit less that I would
otherwise!
of the stall while stray dogs come and snuggle up to you. Amit looked on amused
as I did a Periscope live video, then shot a video on my phone for YouTube and
Facebook and then a picture for Twitter and Instagram before eating. All part
of the eating experience for me and this way I eat a bit less that I would
otherwise!
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| Freshly fried prawns |
The food was delicious and each dish tasted
different. I was particularly blown over by the freshness and juiciness of the
snapper. The cooking oil was not the best I think and gave me a bit of acidity
but nothing that little fresh lime soda at dinner couldn’t fix. Possibly my
most memorable eating experience of the Chennai trip.
different. I was particularly blown over by the freshness and juiciness of the
snapper. The cooking oil was not the best I think and gave me a bit of acidity
but nothing that little fresh lime soda at dinner couldn’t fix. Possibly my
most memorable eating experience of the Chennai trip.
Though they didn’t speak much Hindi, it was
no problem placing our order at the stall. Seeing our interest in the food, the
couple at the stall called us in to see the lady fry the fish on the flat tava
with spices that she took out from plastic bottles. She tried to explain the
masalas she was using. Unfortunately this was in Tamil so we left none the
wiser but very touched by their earnestness.
no problem placing our order at the stall. Seeing our interest in the food, the
couple at the stall called us in to see the lady fry the fish on the flat tava
with spices that she took out from plastic bottles. She tried to explain the
masalas she was using. Unfortunately this was in Tamil so we left none the
wiser but very touched by their earnestness.
Tales of offal
You can get your offal fix at Chennai too. Amit
tells me that there are soup carts in Chennai where you can have Chettinadu
style coagulated goat blood soup and other offal based dishes.
tells me that there are soup carts in Chennai where you can have Chettinadu
style coagulated goat blood soup and other offal based dishes.
I had an amazing
liver ghee roast at the Velachery branch of Thalappakatti which is otherwise famous for
its Dindigul biryani.
liver ghee roast at the Velachery branch of Thalappakatti which is otherwise famous for
its Dindigul biryani.
Ghee roast is a slow cooked meat preparation popular
across South India. If you are fond of goat liver, something Bengalis of my
generation grew up on, then the liver ghee roast at Thalappakatti is just the
dish for you. It is all about the taste of liver followed by a surge of pepper
heat which hits you at the base of your throat.
across South India. If you are fond of goat liver, something Bengalis of my
generation grew up on, then the liver ghee roast at Thalappakatti is just the
dish for you. It is all about the taste of liver followed by a surge of pepper
heat which hits you at the base of your throat.
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| That’s the liver ghee roast in the centre |
I even had some stir fried goats brain and
a goat’s kidney dish at the branch of Ponnasamy restaurant which is near the ITC Grand
Chola. We landed at this restaurant by chance.
a goat’s kidney dish at the branch of Ponnasamy restaurant which is near the ITC Grand
Chola. We landed at this restaurant by chance.
We were headed to the much
recommended Nair Hotel, for a
non-vegetarian lunch, before I left Chennai later in the afternoon. However, the
election results had just been declared that morning and the supporters of the
winner, Jayalalitha’s AIADMK party, were dancing on the streets which would put
the Bhangra dancers of Punjab to shame. We finally gave up hopes up reaching
Mount Road, where Nair Hotel is located, and senior executive chef Bangera of ITC Grand Chola, who was
showing me around, suggested we go to Ponnusamy.
recommended Nair Hotel, for a
non-vegetarian lunch, before I left Chennai later in the afternoon. However, the
election results had just been declared that morning and the supporters of the
winner, Jayalalitha’s AIADMK party, were dancing on the streets which would put
the Bhangra dancers of Punjab to shame. We finally gave up hopes up reaching
Mount Road, where Nair Hotel is located, and senior executive chef Bangera of ITC Grand Chola, who was
showing me around, suggested we go to Ponnusamy.
Ponnusamy is a restaurant that serves Chettinad
food. A cuisine that I had tried at Anjappar in Bangalore before but wanted to try at
Chennai too, so you could say that things had worked out just fine.
food. A cuisine that I had tried at Anjappar in Bangalore before but wanted to try at
Chennai too, so you could say that things had worked out just fine.
Chef Bangera
told me that the Chettinad community of Tamil Nadu is quite an affluent one.
That their diet was originally vegetarian led. Then they travelled the world
for trade, including to Far East Asia and Burma, and that’s where they picked
up their love for non-vegetarian food.
told me that the Chettinad community of Tamil Nadu is quite an affluent one.
That their diet was originally vegetarian led. Then they travelled the world
for trade, including to Far East Asia and Burma, and that’s where they picked
up their love for non-vegetarian food.
Chettinad restaurants are famous for
serving rabbit meat and I wanted to try that at Ponnusamy. I had had a rabbit
65 in Anjappar in Bangalore earlier and had quite liked it. However, both
rabbit as well as sharks dishes were over at Ponnusamy that afternoon as it was close
to 3 pm and well after lunch time.
serving rabbit meat and I wanted to try that at Ponnusamy. I had had a rabbit
65 in Anjappar in Bangalore earlier and had quite liked it. However, both
rabbit as well as sharks dishes were over at Ponnusamy that afternoon as it was close
to 3 pm and well after lunch time.
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| Learning from chefs Srinivas And senior executive chef Ajit Bangera of ITC Grand Chola |
Chef Srinivas from ITC Chola, who joined us
for lunch, told me that a lot of classic Chennai restaurants such as Ponnusamy
didn’t keep a refrigerator till recently. They apparently didn’t believe in
keeping leftover food and preferred to start fresh every morning. A concept which reminded
me of Puncham Puriwala, Mumbai’s oldest running restaurant. The fifth (could be
eight) generation owner told me that they too had no kept a fridge in the
restaurant till recently and would not store food or produce overnight. I met a
Jain lady in Mumbai who told me that her community didn’t eat food kept
overnight in the fridge for religious regions. Jains are strict vegetarians
for lunch, told me that a lot of classic Chennai restaurants such as Ponnusamy
didn’t keep a refrigerator till recently. They apparently didn’t believe in
keeping leftover food and preferred to start fresh every morning. A concept which reminded
me of Puncham Puriwala, Mumbai’s oldest running restaurant. The fifth (could be
eight) generation owner told me that they too had no kept a fridge in the
restaurant till recently and would not store food or produce overnight. I met a
Jain lady in Mumbai who told me that her community didn’t eat food kept
overnight in the fridge for religious regions. Jains are strict vegetarians
Of course.
We ordered
everything on the menu at Ponnusamy. Scrunchy fried goat kidneys, goats
brains stir fried with egg, a flavour packed and succulent country chicken curry, biryani and a
stellar mutton pepper fry. Dishes you would never associate with Chennai unless
you were a local. We had all purpose flour porotas to mop up the food with and rice and biryani too. I was told that you end your meal by mixing a bit of remaining rice with rassam, the spicy and tangy South Indian clear soup.
everything on the menu at Ponnusamy. Scrunchy fried goat kidneys, goats
brains stir fried with egg, a flavour packed and succulent country chicken curry, biryani and a
stellar mutton pepper fry. Dishes you would never associate with Chennai unless
you were a local. We had all purpose flour porotas to mop up the food with and rice and biryani too. I was told that you end your meal by mixing a bit of remaining rice with rassam, the spicy and tangy South Indian clear soup.
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| Our epic meal at Ponnusamy |
I asked the chefs who were with me about what percentage of folks
in Chennai eat non-vegetarian food and both Bangera and Srinivas estimated that
the percentage of non-vegetarians would be at least 60 percent of those living
in Chennai. This was before the report that I spoke of in the beginning had come out.
in Chennai eat non-vegetarian food and both Bangera and Srinivas estimated that
the percentage of non-vegetarians would be at least 60 percent of those living
in Chennai. This was before the report that I spoke of in the beginning had come out.
From what I understand, it is only the Tamil Brahmin communities of
Chennai which are fully vegetarian and they obviously don’t constitute the majority
of the city’s population. This possibly could explain the astounding 89 per cent non-vegetarian population that the report claims Tamil Nadu has. Plus Chennai has a rising migrant population and that probably skews the balance further away.
Chennai which are fully vegetarian and they obviously don’t constitute the majority
of the city’s population. This possibly could explain the astounding 89 per cent non-vegetarian population that the report claims Tamil Nadu has. Plus Chennai has a rising migrant population and that probably skews the balance further away.
It’s presumptuous to claim to know a city after 3 days and what I have said above is just a hypothesis. However, it does make you wonder if there is more to Chennai than idli dosa.
The branch of Ponnusamy that we had gone to
was large, air-conditioned and clean. The seating was pretty functional and
there was a sleepy feel to the place when we reached at around 3 pm.
Interestingly, there was a sari clad lady at the pass and she would put
together the dishes before they were sent. Plating was of course very basic.
Most dishes were in the Rs 150 to 250 range (June 2016) and the portions were apt
for one person.
was large, air-conditioned and clean. The seating was pretty functional and
there was a sleepy feel to the place when we reached at around 3 pm.
Interestingly, there was a sari clad lady at the pass and she would put
together the dishes before they were sent. Plating was of course very basic.
Most dishes were in the Rs 150 to 250 range (June 2016) and the portions were apt
for one person.
The manager taking our order wasn’t too
chatty but was passionate in his advocacy of the Chettinad pepper crabs. I had
a flight to catch in a couple of hours. This was the last meal of the trip. So
I told myself, what the hell, and ordered the crabs.
chatty but was passionate in his advocacy of the Chettinad pepper crabs. I had
a flight to catch in a couple of hours. This was the last meal of the trip. So
I told myself, what the hell, and ordered the crabs.
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| Chettinad peepar crab at Ponnusamy |
This was probably one of the best decisions
that I had ever taken in my life as the Chettinad pepper crab at Ponnusamy
turned out to be the most memorable dish of a trip packed with wonderful eats.
that I had ever taken in my life as the Chettinad pepper crab at Ponnusamy
turned out to be the most memorable dish of a trip packed with wonderful eats.
They serve small crabs at Ponnusamy which
possibly explained the price tag of Rs 260 (June 2016). The famous Mangalorean
seafood restaurants of Mumbai such as Trishna and Mahesh normally try to entice
you with giant crabs brought live to your table and the cost there comes to upwards
of Rs 2,000 a plate there.
possibly explained the price tag of Rs 260 (June 2016). The famous Mangalorean
seafood restaurants of Mumbai such as Trishna and Mahesh normally try to entice
you with giant crabs brought live to your table and the cost there comes to upwards
of Rs 2,000 a plate there.
Mr Prabhakar Desai, who runs a Malvani
(coastal Maharashtrian) restaurant named Sindhudurg in Mumbai, once told me
that he serves small crabs in his restaurant because that’s how the folks in
the Malvan region eat crabs at home. They consider small crabs to be easier on
the pocket and more delicious too.
(coastal Maharashtrian) restaurant named Sindhudurg in Mumbai, once told me
that he serves small crabs in his restaurant because that’s how the folks in
the Malvan region eat crabs at home. They consider small crabs to be easier on
the pocket and more delicious too.
Getting back to the crab at Ponnusamy, the
crab was served in the shell but broken into pieces (claws and body separate).
Encouraged by the senior executive five star hotel chef in front of me, I
followed Ajit Bangera’s lead and grasped a crab claw with my hands and
proceeded to chew on the shell. The claw broke and exposed the white crab meat
inside. The first taste to hit you was the peppery and heaty taste of the
masala and this was then followed by the sweet, somnambulant taste of the
silken crab meat. The heady masala and the fresh crab meat worked in tandem to
give me the headiest taste experience of my trip of Chennai.
crab was served in the shell but broken into pieces (claws and body separate).
Encouraged by the senior executive five star hotel chef in front of me, I
followed Ajit Bangera’s lead and grasped a crab claw with my hands and
proceeded to chew on the shell. The claw broke and exposed the white crab meat
inside. The first taste to hit you was the peppery and heaty taste of the
masala and this was then followed by the sweet, somnambulant taste of the
silken crab meat. The heady masala and the fresh crab meat worked in tandem to
give me the headiest taste experience of my trip of Chennai.
Here’s a phone video of us at Ponnusamy
So a restaurant that I hadn’t planned to go
to, and a dish I hadn’t planned to order, turned out to the be the most
wonderful dish of my Chennai trip. Tells you that sometimes you should just go ahead
with the flow rather than planning things to much when a trip. Sometimes serendipity
can lead to unforgettable discoveries.
to, and a dish I hadn’t planned to order, turned out to the be the most
wonderful dish of my Chennai trip. Tells you that sometimes you should just go ahead
with the flow rather than planning things to much when a trip. Sometimes serendipity
can lead to unforgettable discoveries.
My stay at Chennai was courtesy the ITC Grand Chola Hotel
I recommend a unique dish called 'Mutton Nalli Biryani' @ Sangam Hotel, Mount road, two shops away from the original Buhari. This biryani is made with 'nalli' which are the juices from the bone marrow. This lends a very rich flavour to the rice but subtle enough not to overpower the meat or any other spices. Served with 2 large chunks of meat and topped with fried onions and cashews. Must try while in Chennai.
Best,
Hari
this sounds like right up my street Hari