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Coastal Banga

I have had some interesting restaurant meals recently and can’t wait to tell you about them. I thought that I would start with the one whose food left the biggest impression on my heart and my belly.

I am talking of the one-month-old Coast and Bloom (C&B) Restaurant which is located at Kohinoor Square opposite Shiv Sena Bhavan. I was invited over for lunch there by Mitra Walke and his sister Sayli. Their mother, Mrs Surekha Walke, is the owner of the very popular Malvani restaurant called Chaitanya. Chaitanya has 3 branches The original one is at Malvan. They are located at Prabhadevi and Versova in Mumbai.  Coast and Bloom is an initiative from the second generation to enter a space which is very different from Chaitanya and yet stays true to its coastal roots.

Let’s look at the differences first. C&B is more spacious than the original Chaitanya. The decor is modern and plush in comparison to Chaitanya which has the spartan seating that characterises restaurants of its genre. C&B has a well-stocked bar with a varied cocktail menu and wine cellar. Chaitanya does not serve alcohol. The menu at C&B features dishes from across India and the world while Chaitanya focuses on Malvani food. The cost of dishes at C&B is understandably much higher than that in Chaitanya.

Coast and Bloom

So is there nothing in common between the two? Turns out that there is.

The Chef de Cuisine of C&B, Prrasad Parab, hails from the Malvan as do the Walkes and the love for coastal food runs in their DNA.

It is no surprise that they have come up with a menu that features coast food. This is not limited to dishes from Malvan the region, but covers other parts of India, South Asia, Far Eastern Asia and the Mediterranean region. Mitra said that they have tried to stick to classic versions of the dishes. They have an advantage when it comes to seafood as they have used the suppliers who provide fish in Chaitanya. Vegetables used are local. The only imports are scallops and salmon.

You might have noticed that I have used the term ‘coastal food’ and not ‘seafood,’ unlike what one associates with Malvani food. Mitra told me there is a lot more to the Malvani food than seafood. The people of Malvan in coastal Maharashtra eat vegetarian food every day. Seafood consumption is limited by the fact that people are purely vegetarian three days a week and then there are certain months in the year when they are vegetarian.  Country chicken is the preferred meat and is consumed far less frequently than fish. Mutton is consumed rarely.

I was a bit circumspect about the huge range of the menu. Had they spread themselves too thin, I wondered.

I brought up the point with Mitra who explained that they were targeting the family audience. The traditional dishes on the menu were for family elders and the international dishes were for Gen Z.

I tasted several dishes to see how this had turned out and was quite pleasantly surprised with what I saw. Mitra had organised tasting portions and the following were my favourites:
Sri Lankan crab curry (deshelled crab)

 

The Sri Lankan crab curry was packed with sweet and fresh mud crab meat in a coconut milk based gravy which was mildly heaty and very addictive.
Kerala pepper clams
The Kerala pepper clams featured fresh clams in a beautiful green pepper and curry leaf-based sauce. The sauce here, as in the gravy of the crab curry, oozed comfort and was of the sort that you could not have enough of.
Wood roast chicken
The wood roast chicken liver, served on small bajra bhakris, had a robust and rustic touch to it. Mitra said that the inspiration for this dish lies in the practice of not wasting the offal from the chicken used for curries back home in Malvan. It is cooked on coal fired ovens and consumed.
The solidity of the bajra bhakri gave the required foundation to the juicy liver here and the pomegranate contrasted the bitterness of the offal.
Crab kakori
The crab kakori intrigued me. How would they bind crab meat, which shreds easily, on a seekh? Rather adeptly as it turned out and the dish offered an unadulterated crab experience for devotees of the crustacean. And no, the kebab did not fall apart. Yes, it was moist.
Rockfellers Crab  was
Then there were the Rockefeller oysters which were baked in butter cream and sambuca and were as hedonistic a dish as it gets. The oysters are sourced locally.
kothimbir popper
The kothimbir poppers offered an innovative crunchy take on the Maharashtrian snack kothimbir vadi which in my experience has a soft besan-based underbelly. I liked this more than the original version.
Coastal banga

 

Another dish that I really liked was coastal banga which was an intensely flavoured and spicy clear chicken broth. Guaranteed to clear a cold lest you have one. The buttered ladi pav that it was served was best dunked in the soup and enjoyed.
Spana Kopitas
The use of red spinach, which is widely consumed in Malvan, in the Greek Spana Kopitas was inspired as it combined very well with the feta in this phyllo pastry. I have had red spinach or lal shaak while growing up in Kolkata and the dish evoked nostalgia. It connected my past and present as I am a big fan of feta cheese now.
Kokum shrimp salad

 

There were a few dishes that did not excite me that much but these are early days and they are still in the middle of experimenting.. I’d urge them to look at the kokum shrimp salad as there’s too much happening in them with rocket leaves, avocado, and peanut granola all vying for attention. ‘Excess’ is the issue with horse gram chaat too. The horse gram tikki had a nice earthy texture to it but was drowned in the chutneys of the chaat. I missed the flavour and salt in the kolimbi bhaat. It is a one-pot shrimp and rice dish that is very typical to the Malvan region. Seemed a bit bland to someone not used to it. You would find a commercialised version of it at the Chaitanya and that rocks. The Kerala veg stew seemed a tad too sweet to me.
Kolimbi bhaat

 

It was nice to see Mitra and Sayli’s involvement in the business. The next generation of many traditional eateries prefer to move on to other streams but that is not so in the case of this brother and sister duo.  They are involved in the running of Chaitanya and that remains their priority. They plan to open more branches of Chaitanya.
Coast and Bloom is their attempt to go outside of their comfort zone and at times, that is what is needed to grow.
With Sayli and Mitra

 

Note: This was a hosted meal.  The food in the pictures is not representative of actual portion sizes. I chose dishes that were closest to home and gave the Far Eastern and Western dishes a miss but from what I experienced, I guess these would be good too.
 
Little Nimki and Baby Loaf gave me company while I wrote and published this post.
 

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