Kahaani of Kolkata
(I haven’t been able to proof what the typist has done fully but wanted to share this quickly – KK)
No, this is
not a sequel to Sujoy Ghosh’s recent film Kahaani. I don’t
have the expertise or talent of Sujoy Ghosh to portray the humdrum scenes of
Kolkata in a larger-than- life style and thus evoke the sentiments of the
Bengalis in general. Nor do I have the charm of Vidya Balan to give this post a
punch and enhance one’s zest for life.
not a sequel to Sujoy Ghosh’s recent film Kahaani. I don’t
have the expertise or talent of Sujoy Ghosh to portray the humdrum scenes of
Kolkata in a larger-than- life style and thus evoke the sentiments of the
Bengalis in general. Nor do I have the charm of Vidya Balan to give this post a
punch and enhance one’s zest for life.
This is
simply the version of one who was neither born nor brought up in the city but
happened to settle down in Kolkata at a mature age of thirty by a stroke of
fate. As a result, her opinions may differ from those of die-hard fans of
Kolkata – an example of the blind men and an elephant, the timeless parable of
differing perceptions and perspectives.
simply the version of one who was neither born nor brought up in the city but
happened to settle down in Kolkata at a mature age of thirty by a stroke of
fate. As a result, her opinions may differ from those of die-hard fans of
Kolkata – an example of the blind men and an elephant, the timeless parable of
differing perceptions and perspectives.
My
connection with Kolkata, however, started at a tender age of my childhood. As
the child of a ‘probashi’ Bengali residing in Delhi, it was compulsory for us
to visit West Bengal at least once a year if not more. Though our final
destination was Diamond Harbour where my paternal grandparents lived, we
usually stopped at Kolkata for a day or two at my uncle’s house.
connection with Kolkata, however, started at a tender age of my childhood. As
the child of a ‘probashi’ Bengali residing in Delhi, it was compulsory for us
to visit West Bengal at least once a year if not more. Though our final
destination was Diamond Harbour where my paternal grandparents lived, we
usually stopped at Kolkata for a day or two at my uncle’s house.
Whenever we
went there, my aunt invariably took us to meet her people at College Square,
where they had settled down after partition. However much I might have loved
their pampering, I was scared of the
narrow alleys, hackneyed buses and the mosquitoes of Kolkata.
went there, my aunt invariably took us to meet her people at College Square,
where they had settled down after partition. However much I might have loved
their pampering, I was scared of the
narrow alleys, hackneyed buses and the mosquitoes of Kolkata.
I was
probably born at a wrong time in the history of India as well as of West
Bengal. Born in 1947, I did not have to face the travails of partition directly
as my previous generation had to. But I felt the after–tremor of the
catastrophe which was in itself quite devastating.
probably born at a wrong time in the history of India as well as of West
Bengal. Born in 1947, I did not have to face the travails of partition directly
as my previous generation had to. But I felt the after–tremor of the
catastrophe which was in itself quite devastating.
Whenever we
passed through Howrah and Sealdah stations, I used to be overwhelmed by seeing
the refugees staying in platforms. Each family occupied approximate ten metres
of space. They lived, cooked and slept in that open space making it difficult
for the passengers to walk. This situation continued for quite a few years.
Gradually they took shelter in places like Jadavpur, Garia, Behala, Baghajatin
and Tollygaunge which were supposed to be in the outskirt of Kolkata at that
time.
passed through Howrah and Sealdah stations, I used to be overwhelmed by seeing
the refugees staying in platforms. Each family occupied approximate ten metres
of space. They lived, cooked and slept in that open space making it difficult
for the passengers to walk. This situation continued for quite a few years.
Gradually they took shelter in places like Jadavpur, Garia, Behala, Baghajatin
and Tollygaunge which were supposed to be in the outskirt of Kolkata at that
time.
All these
left an indelible mark on my impressionable mind. May be contemporaries in
Kolkata did not feel it as much as I did because if you keep on seeing the same
scene almost every day, you become more or less immune to it. As human tendency
is, I wanted to avoid these disturbing scenarios and run away from them.
left an indelible mark on my impressionable mind. May be contemporaries in
Kolkata did not feel it as much as I did because if you keep on seeing the same
scene almost every day, you become more or less immune to it. As human tendency
is, I wanted to avoid these disturbing scenarios and run away from them.
Misfortunes
continued to plague Kolkata for quite some time even after partition.
Unemployment was at its peak. Strikes and lock-outs were common events. Young
men spent their time in idle gossip sitting on some neighbour’s ‘rock’ or
verandah. New words were coined in Bengali e.g. ‘rockbaz chele’(a boy spending
idle time on someone’s rock/verandah), ‘addabaj chele’(a boy wasting time in useless
adda/gossip)
continued to plague Kolkata for quite some time even after partition.
Unemployment was at its peak. Strikes and lock-outs were common events. Young
men spent their time in idle gossip sitting on some neighbour’s ‘rock’ or
verandah. New words were coined in Bengali e.g. ‘rockbaz chele’(a boy spending
idle time on someone’s rock/verandah), ‘addabaj chele’(a boy wasting time in useless
adda/gossip)
Then came
the Naxalete movement. Murders and arrests were everyday occurrences. As if all
these were not enough, in 1971 after the liberation of Bangladesh, came another
influx of refugees from Bangladesh. It is not that I was a direct witness to
all these or was in any way influenced by
these happenings but I read about them in newspapers and heard from
relatives and friends staying in Kolkata .Several books written on the
partition and its aftermath also moved me deeply.
the Naxalete movement. Murders and arrests were everyday occurrences. As if all
these were not enough, in 1971 after the liberation of Bangladesh, came another
influx of refugees from Bangladesh. It is not that I was a direct witness to
all these or was in any way influenced by
these happenings but I read about them in newspapers and heard from
relatives and friends staying in Kolkata .Several books written on the
partition and its aftermath also moved me deeply.
In 1973, I
left India for abroad after I got married. I came back in 1979 to settle
permanently at Kolkata.
left India for abroad after I got married. I came back in 1979 to settle
permanently at Kolkata.
When I
started living in Kolkata on a regular basis, I began to discover the brighter
side of the city. Moreover, the problems of Kolkata too had subsided to some
extent.
started living in Kolkata on a regular basis, I began to discover the brighter
side of the city. Moreover, the problems of Kolkata too had subsided to some
extent.
Very often
we would go to Park Street for dinner or lunch. Sometimes, we would take our son
Kalyan to Alipore zoo or go to Rabindra Sadan theatre to watch a play or the
live performance of a ‘kathak’ dance show. We also started knowing the elites
and the Marwaris, who were mostly my husband’s patients. My initial dislike for
Kolkata started giving in to my fondness for the city.
we would go to Park Street for dinner or lunch. Sometimes, we would take our son
Kalyan to Alipore zoo or go to Rabindra Sadan theatre to watch a play or the
live performance of a ‘kathak’ dance show. We also started knowing the elites
and the Marwaris, who were mostly my husband’s patients. My initial dislike for
Kolkata started giving in to my fondness for the city.
After a few
years, I took up a teaching assignment in a college (under Calcutta University)
at Howrah, which was at a stone’s throw from Howrah station. I travelled everyday
from South Kolkata (Tollygunge) to Howrah by minibus, which took me one and a
half hour while going and the same amount of time on my way back. While
travelling from one end of the city to the other end, I came across all the
major tourist spots.
years, I took up a teaching assignment in a college (under Calcutta University)
at Howrah, which was at a stone’s throw from Howrah station. I travelled everyday
from South Kolkata (Tollygunge) to Howrah by minibus, which took me one and a
half hour while going and the same amount of time on my way back. While
travelling from one end of the city to the other end, I came across all the
major tourist spots.
During my
bus journeys, I mastered the art of taking a nap, keeping my head straight,
without dozing off on the next passenger. Every day, I would hear the conductor
blurting out the names of the tourist sites in my half-sleep and half –wake state.
This went on for twenty five long years. As a result, whenever someone named a
tourist spot, the picture of the bus stop came to my mind first. Then came the
vision of the actual place to my mind.
bus journeys, I mastered the art of taking a nap, keeping my head straight,
without dozing off on the next passenger. Every day, I would hear the conductor
blurting out the names of the tourist sites in my half-sleep and half –wake state.
This went on for twenty five long years. As a result, whenever someone named a
tourist spot, the picture of the bus stop came to my mind first. Then came the
vision of the actual place to my mind.
On my route
from Tollygaunge to Howrah, I passed by these tourist sites every day. The most
famous tourist spot after Tollygunge is Kalighat Temple. The conductor would enthusiastically
get down and shout at the top of his voice ‘Kalighat, kalighat’. They do not believe
in adding a suffix or prefix to a name. Kalighat Temple, the oldest kali temple
of Kolkata is five minutes’ walk from the main road. Many people feel that the
name ‘Kolkata’ has been derived from the word ‘kalighat’. Tuesdays and
Saturdays are the most auspicious days for worshipping Goddess kali. It is said
that there are ornaments worth crores of rupees on the idol of Goddess kali.
from Tollygaunge to Howrah, I passed by these tourist sites every day. The most
famous tourist spot after Tollygunge is Kalighat Temple. The conductor would enthusiastically
get down and shout at the top of his voice ‘Kalighat, kalighat’. They do not believe
in adding a suffix or prefix to a name. Kalighat Temple, the oldest kali temple
of Kolkata is five minutes’ walk from the main road. Many people feel that the
name ‘Kolkata’ has been derived from the word ‘kalighat’. Tuesdays and
Saturdays are the most auspicious days for worshipping Goddess kali. It is said
that there are ornaments worth crores of rupees on the idol of Goddess kali.
Ekta Kapoor,
Vidya Balan and many other luminaries of Bollywood are its regular visitors.
Vidya Balan and many other luminaries of Bollywood are its regular visitors.
After
Kalighat Temple, the most famous tourist site is ‘Victoria Memorial Hall’. The
conductors of all the buses would get down here and shout in chorus ‘Victoria,
Victoria’. Thank God Queen Victoria is not around or she would have been
shocked to death for the second time hearing a petty native conductor calling her
by her first name not even adding ‘Her majesty’ or ‘Queen’ to it .Jokes apart,
‘Victorial Memorial Hall’ was the brainchild of Lord Curzon. It is an iconic
building built with white marble. So much so that many people call it the ‘Tajmahal
of Kolkata’. The building is surrounded by sprawling gardens on all sides. The archive
inside is a treasure trove. A few months back, Queen Victoria’s piano, on which
she once played, was repaired and put on display.
Kalighat Temple, the most famous tourist site is ‘Victoria Memorial Hall’. The
conductors of all the buses would get down here and shout in chorus ‘Victoria,
Victoria’. Thank God Queen Victoria is not around or she would have been
shocked to death for the second time hearing a petty native conductor calling her
by her first name not even adding ‘Her majesty’ or ‘Queen’ to it .Jokes apart,
‘Victorial Memorial Hall’ was the brainchild of Lord Curzon. It is an iconic
building built with white marble. So much so that many people call it the ‘Tajmahal
of Kolkata’. The building is surrounded by sprawling gardens on all sides. The archive
inside is a treasure trove. A few months back, Queen Victoria’s piano, on which
she once played, was repaired and put on display.
The most
interesting part of the building is the little dancing fairy on its top.
Sometimes the fairy would stop dancing and the authorities would take all
measures to set it right. Every day I would look at it through the window of the
bus to watch its progress.
interesting part of the building is the little dancing fairy on its top.
Sometimes the fairy would stop dancing and the authorities would take all
measures to set it right. Every day I would look at it through the window of the
bus to watch its progress.
Then
suddenly one day the little fairy would put on her Cindrella shoes and start
rotating slowly over the dome of the monumental building . I have not been able
to track its movement for the last few years as I do not go that way much.
suddenly one day the little fairy would put on her Cindrella shoes and start
rotating slowly over the dome of the monumental building . I have not been able
to track its movement for the last few years as I do not go that way much.
The next stop is Park Street. The conductors
call it ‘Parkees Street’. A lane that goes inside from the main road is called
Park Street.
call it ‘Parkees Street’. A lane that goes inside from the main road is called
Park Street.
It is lined
by restaurants on both sides of the road and is the ultimate destination of the
foodies. ‘Peter Cat’, ‘Mocambo’, ‘Bar-b-cue’,‘Oasis’, the newly renovated ‘Magnolia’
and ‘Flurrys’ are a few of them. Heritage buildings along with the modern
buildings give Park Street a fashionable and sophisticated look. If you go
farther you will come across the famous ‘St.Xaviers College’, which has now
become autonomous.
by restaurants on both sides of the road and is the ultimate destination of the
foodies. ‘Peter Cat’, ‘Mocambo’, ‘Bar-b-cue’,‘Oasis’, the newly renovated ‘Magnolia’
and ‘Flurrys’ are a few of them. Heritage buildings along with the modern
buildings give Park Street a fashionable and sophisticated look. If you go
farther you will come across the famous ‘St.Xaviers College’, which has now
become autonomous.
After Park
Street, the bus would pass by the famous ‘Indian Museum’ where I once saw
mummies transported from Egypt.
Street, the bus would pass by the famous ‘Indian Museum’ where I once saw
mummies transported from Egypt.
After this
the bus passes by ’The Grand Hotel’ which is really ‘grand’ as its name suggests.
Next to it is the bus-stop of New Market. A road, from the main street, takes
you straight to New Market. This market, made up of quaint little shops, is
under one single roof. You can find everything here – from a pin to an
elephant. Quite often I have lost my way in the maze of the shops. Lot of malls
have come up around this market but New Market has not lost its charm. It is
still a major tourist attraction.
the bus passes by ’The Grand Hotel’ which is really ‘grand’ as its name suggests.
Next to it is the bus-stop of New Market. A road, from the main street, takes
you straight to New Market. This market, made up of quaint little shops, is
under one single roof. You can find everything here – from a pin to an
elephant. Quite often I have lost my way in the maze of the shops. Lot of malls
have come up around this market but New Market has not lost its charm. It is
still a major tourist attraction.
The next
destination is Esplanade or ‘bus adda/terminus’. The buses line up here for
long destination trips. ’Sahid Minar’, next to it, can be compared to ‘Qutub
Minar’ of New Delhi though it is much shorter than the one in New Delhi.
destination is Esplanade or ‘bus adda/terminus’. The buses line up here for
long destination trips. ’Sahid Minar’, next to it, can be compared to ‘Qutub
Minar’ of New Delhi though it is much shorter than the one in New Delhi.
Built earlier,
this Minar was later dedicated to the Shahids/martyrs. Many political meetings
are held in the ground surrounding it . Whenever the crowd swells, the leader
concerned pats his/her own back and feels like saying ‘I am the lord of what I
survey!’.
this Minar was later dedicated to the Shahids/martyrs. Many political meetings
are held in the ground surrounding it . Whenever the crowd swells, the leader
concerned pats his/her own back and feels like saying ‘I am the lord of what I
survey!’.
After
Esplanade, the bus turns left and passes by the statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra
Bose and the famous Eden Garden Cricket Ground. Then it enters Dalhousie
Square/B.B.D. Bagh. It is also colloquially called ‘office para’ as this area
was specially developed by the British as an office complex. Buildings after
buildings, with red bricks, were built to house offices. Nothing has changed
since then. This area is unmistakably British and goes to show that Kolkata was
once the capital of the British Raj. Sometimes I wonder how many buildings the
British built! Poor souls! They must not have ever thought of leaving this
country and handing over everything to the natives.
Esplanade, the bus turns left and passes by the statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra
Bose and the famous Eden Garden Cricket Ground. Then it enters Dalhousie
Square/B.B.D. Bagh. It is also colloquially called ‘office para’ as this area
was specially developed by the British as an office complex. Buildings after
buildings, with red bricks, were built to house offices. Nothing has changed
since then. This area is unmistakably British and goes to show that Kolkata was
once the capital of the British Raj. Sometimes I wonder how many buildings the
British built! Poor souls! They must not have ever thought of leaving this
country and handing over everything to the natives.
G.P.O or the
General Post Office is one of the most important buildings of this area . The
big clock over G.P.O reminds me of Big Ben of London. But never ever think of
setting your clock right looking at the clock over G.P.O because half of the
time it does not work.
General Post Office is one of the most important buildings of this area . The
big clock over G.P.O reminds me of Big Ben of London. But never ever think of
setting your clock right looking at the clock over G.P.O because half of the
time it does not work.
Writers
Building next to it, is West Bengal’s seat of power. It was the bastion of Left
Front Government for more than three decades. Now the Government of Trinamul
Congress is ruling the state from here.
Building next to it, is West Bengal’s seat of power. It was the bastion of Left
Front Government for more than three decades. Now the Government of Trinamul
Congress is ruling the state from here.
Burrabazar
is the next bus stop. Every day business worth crores of rupees is transacted
in the dingy shops of the over congested alleys of Burrabazar.
is the next bus stop. Every day business worth crores of rupees is transacted
in the dingy shops of the over congested alleys of Burrabazar.
Then from
far I could see the Howrah Bridge, glistening in the sun, standing as tall as
ever. Built by the British, it has become the symbol of the city. Though
another bridge has been built parallel to it, the old Howrah Bridge still
carries most of the load.
far I could see the Howrah Bridge, glistening in the sun, standing as tall as
ever. Built by the British, it has become the symbol of the city. Though
another bridge has been built parallel to it, the old Howrah Bridge still
carries most of the load.
Finally, the
bus crosses over the bridge and reaches ‘Howrah Station’ bus-stop. All the
conductors as well as the driver get off the bus to sip some black tea, smoke
and gossip. It would wait at least for ten minutes no matter what. Seasoned
passengers like me would not utter a word to hurry them up but the amateur ones
would fight with them without producing any effect though.
bus crosses over the bridge and reaches ‘Howrah Station’ bus-stop. All the
conductors as well as the driver get off the bus to sip some black tea, smoke
and gossip. It would wait at least for ten minutes no matter what. Seasoned
passengers like me would not utter a word to hurry them up but the amateur ones
would fight with them without producing any effect though.
After the
break, the bus would move for a few minutes and then again stop near the subway
of the local trains. The conductors would get down from the buses and shout
their respective destinations. If they had their way, they would have dragged
the passengers by hand to their buses. After the ten minutes’ scheduled wait
near the subway, the bus would run for a few minutes and drop me over the
middle of the flyover. I would climb down about sixty stairs from above the
flyover and enter the college huffing and puffing. Now I hope, you realize, why
I visualize the bus stops first when someone names a tourist spot rather than
the actual place.
break, the bus would move for a few minutes and then again stop near the subway
of the local trains. The conductors would get down from the buses and shout
their respective destinations. If they had their way, they would have dragged
the passengers by hand to their buses. After the ten minutes’ scheduled wait
near the subway, the bus would run for a few minutes and drop me over the
middle of the flyover. I would climb down about sixty stairs from above the
flyover and enter the college huffing and puffing. Now I hope, you realize, why
I visualize the bus stops first when someone names a tourist spot rather than
the actual place.
Quite often
I had to go to Calcutta University at College Street Campus on different
errands such as receiving answer scripts of C.U examination for correction,
collecting mark sheets of students or attending seminars. I used to take a bus
from the college, which passed through a very crowded street of Kolkata.
I had to go to Calcutta University at College Street Campus on different
errands such as receiving answer scripts of C.U examination for correction,
collecting mark sheets of students or attending seminars. I used to take a bus
from the college, which passed through a very crowded street of Kolkata.
The first
time I saw Calcutta University, I was very surprised to find it situated in a
crowded locality and also having very little space. I remembered Delhi
University from where I had passed out, having a campus that extended for miles
and had tall palm trees and beds of roses. Later I realized that was the
difference between a State university and a Central university – the difference
between the children of a poor dad and a rich dad. Calcutta University’s
academic excellence was, however, recognized recently by NAAC (National
Assessment and Accreditation Council) and it was accredited a very high grade.
time I saw Calcutta University, I was very surprised to find it situated in a
crowded locality and also having very little space. I remembered Delhi
University from where I had passed out, having a campus that extended for miles
and had tall palm trees and beds of roses. Later I realized that was the
difference between a State university and a Central university – the difference
between the children of a poor dad and a rich dad. Calcutta University’s
academic excellence was, however, recognized recently by NAAC (National
Assessment and Accreditation Council) and it was accredited a very high grade.
The rows of
book stalls , in front of the university gate, from an integral part of the
area. Book shops after book shops occupy both sides of the main road. Name any
book and you will find it here. It is a book worm’s paradise.
book stalls , in front of the university gate, from an integral part of the
area. Book shops after book shops occupy both sides of the main road. Name any
book and you will find it here. It is a book worm’s paradise.
I cannot
resist here the temptation of narrating an experience that I had in this book-street.
Before my retirement, I found out that book was missing from the list of my
borrowed books. The librarian said that I would have to pay ten times the price
if I did not replace the book. So one fine morning, I went to College Street
book shops to try my luck as the book was out of print as well as out of
syllabus. On my asking about the book, the shop-keeper asked me wait for a
while. As I waited, I noticed a flurry of activities. The whole of College
Street was alerted. Within half an hour, a man came and gave me a moth eaten
second hand book. I was amazed at the excellent network of the College Street
book Bazar in finding an out of print book so soon.
resist here the temptation of narrating an experience that I had in this book-street.
Before my retirement, I found out that book was missing from the list of my
borrowed books. The librarian said that I would have to pay ten times the price
if I did not replace the book. So one fine morning, I went to College Street
book shops to try my luck as the book was out of print as well as out of
syllabus. On my asking about the book, the shop-keeper asked me wait for a
while. As I waited, I noticed a flurry of activities. The whole of College
Street was alerted. Within half an hour, a man came and gave me a moth eaten
second hand book. I was amazed at the excellent network of the College Street
book Bazar in finding an out of print book so soon.
As you pass
by the book stalls and go farther up, you will come across the prestigious
Presidency College, which is more than one and a half centuries old. I have
always been enthralled by the magnificent and iconic building of the college
with a porch in the front. A few modern buildings have been added to the campus
to cope up with the expansion of the college. Many worthy sons of India,
including our first President Dr Rajendra Prasad as well as the present
President Pranab Mukherjee, were students of this college.
by the book stalls and go farther up, you will come across the prestigious
Presidency College, which is more than one and a half centuries old. I have
always been enthralled by the magnificent and iconic building of the college
with a porch in the front. A few modern buildings have been added to the campus
to cope up with the expansion of the college. Many worthy sons of India,
including our first President Dr Rajendra Prasad as well as the present
President Pranab Mukherjee, were students of this college.
And The Knife (OK I added this line 😉 KK )
Presidency
College has recently been granted the status of a University after a long
struggle. It is now called ‘Presidency University’ instead of ‘Presidency
College’.
College has recently been granted the status of a University after a long
struggle. It is now called ‘Presidency University’ instead of ‘Presidency
College’.
In the
vicinity of this college, you will also find the state-of- the- art – building
of ‘Indian Institute of Social Welfare and Business Management’(IISWBM),
India’s first business school as well as a pioneer in the field.
vicinity of this college, you will also find the state-of- the- art – building
of ‘Indian Institute of Social Welfare and Business Management’(IISWBM),
India’s first business school as well as a pioneer in the field.
No story of
Kolkata can ever be complete without a reference to its underground metro railway,
which is Kolkata’s pride and India’s first metro railway.
Kolkata can ever be complete without a reference to its underground metro railway,
which is Kolkata’s pride and India’s first metro railway.
When I came
back to Kolkata in 1979 from abroad, I found that the whole city was dug up for
laying tracks of underground metro railways. Trench-like tunnels, with mud heaped
on both sides, were common sights for many years. In 1984, a short route of the
metro rail from Bhowanipore to Esplanade started functioning.
back to Kolkata in 1979 from abroad, I found that the whole city was dug up for
laying tracks of underground metro railways. Trench-like tunnels, with mud heaped
on both sides, were common sights for many years. In 1984, a short route of the
metro rail from Bhowanipore to Esplanade started functioning.
Finally in
1995, metro rail started operating from Tollygunge to Dumdum. I remember that I
travelled from Tollygunge to Esplanade on the second day of its operation. I
was thrilled to find myself so many feet below the surface. I felt like little
Alice who followed a rabbit in a tunnel and found herself in a wonderland.
Kolkatans have by now got used to this mode of transport and do not even think
once while entering or going out of the metro tunnel.
1995, metro rail started operating from Tollygunge to Dumdum. I remember that I
travelled from Tollygunge to Esplanade on the second day of its operation. I
was thrilled to find myself so many feet below the surface. I felt like little
Alice who followed a rabbit in a tunnel and found herself in a wonderland.
Kolkatans have by now got used to this mode of transport and do not even think
once while entering or going out of the metro tunnel.
In 2010,
metro rail was extended from Tollygunge to New Garia. This time the railway
track was laid over high pillars above Tolly’s mullah so there was no digging
of the area.
metro rail was extended from Tollygunge to New Garia. This time the railway
track was laid over high pillars above Tolly’s mullah so there was no digging
of the area.
People of
the Tollygunge–Garia area went mad with excitement when it was first introduced
in 2010. They went on rooftops, climbed trees to wave at the passengers of the
train. Luckily for me, one of the stations named ‘Masterda Surya Sen’ station
is just on the other side of the road of our building. Though my sons have left
the city and I do not go to work anymore, I always feel very proud and happy
whenever I go out taking a metro from ‘Mastarda Surya Sen’ station.
the Tollygunge–Garia area went mad with excitement when it was first introduced
in 2010. They went on rooftops, climbed trees to wave at the passengers of the
train. Luckily for me, one of the stations named ‘Masterda Surya Sen’ station
is just on the other side of the road of our building. Though my sons have left
the city and I do not go to work anymore, I always feel very proud and happy
whenever I go out taking a metro from ‘Mastarda Surya Sen’ station.
Let me now
say something about the people of Kolkata and their social life as a city is
known by its people.
say something about the people of Kolkata and their social life as a city is
known by its people.
Kolkatans
are on the whole good natured’ bhadralok’ type (gentleman type) people. They
are not a gun-toting tribe – that is you will not see guns jutting out of their
hip pockets. But they will not bat an eyelid while assassinating your moral
character. More concerned about what is cooking in other people’s pot rather
than in their own, they amply justify nineteeth century British novelist Jane
Austen’s remark ‘Neighbours are our voluntary spies’ ( God, please, help me from the Kolkata fans!)
are on the whole good natured’ bhadralok’ type (gentleman type) people. They
are not a gun-toting tribe – that is you will not see guns jutting out of their
hip pockets. But they will not bat an eyelid while assassinating your moral
character. More concerned about what is cooking in other people’s pot rather
than in their own, they amply justify nineteeth century British novelist Jane
Austen’s remark ‘Neighbours are our voluntary spies’ ( God, please, help me from the Kolkata fans!)
Jokes apart,
people all over the world are touched by the warmth of the people of this city.
The Kolkatans will go to any length to help you. You need not necessarily be
Vidya Balan of Kahaani to get their support and love.
people all over the world are touched by the warmth of the people of this city.
The Kolkatans will go to any length to help you. You need not necessarily be
Vidya Balan of Kahaani to get their support and love.
The most
remarkable characteristic of the Kolkatans is their enthusiasm coupled with
spontaneous joy for life. This enthusiasm manifests itself in the celebration
of their festivals – the most important one being Durga puja.
remarkable characteristic of the Kolkatans is their enthusiasm coupled with
spontaneous joy for life. This enthusiasm manifests itself in the celebration
of their festivals – the most important one being Durga puja.
Come Durga
puja , the whole city will let loose its hair and celebrate it for five days in
such a way as if there is no tomorrow. Chanting of mantras, smell of flowers,
burning of incense shicks, sounds of ‘dhaak’ (a wooden table-like musical
instrument specially played on during Durga pujas), blaring of mikes and
constant chatter of the people fill the air.
puja , the whole city will let loose its hair and celebrate it for five days in
such a way as if there is no tomorrow. Chanting of mantras, smell of flowers,
burning of incense shicks, sounds of ‘dhaak’ (a wooden table-like musical
instrument specially played on during Durga pujas), blaring of mikes and
constant chatter of the people fill the air.
Idols of
Goddess Durga are examples of exquisite craftsmanship and artistic capabilities
– only to be immersed in the river on ‘Dashami’, the last day of the puja.
Goddess Durga are examples of exquisite craftsmanship and artistic capabilities
– only to be immersed in the river on ‘Dashami’, the last day of the puja.
Every one
attires oneself in new cloth. Food stalls and restaurants become chock-a-block.
Kolkatans celebrate Durga puja mostly by pandal hopping – that is going from
one pandal to another to see the idols. Kolkata police has been doing a fine
job in controlling the crowd for the last few years.
attires oneself in new cloth. Food stalls and restaurants become chock-a-block.
Kolkatans celebrate Durga puja mostly by pandal hopping – that is going from
one pandal to another to see the idols. Kolkata police has been doing a fine
job in controlling the crowd for the last few years.
People from
different countries come to Kolkata during Durga puja though some people find
these few days very noisy and chaotic. This is what happens. You do not
appreciate your own things . When the Spanish celebrate their ‘la tomatina’
festival by throwing tomatoes at each other or chase a bull to death or vice
versa, we all go ‘ga ga’ over it. But these same people will go to any length
criticizing their own rituals. This is the fallacy of life.
different countries come to Kolkata during Durga puja though some people find
these few days very noisy and chaotic. This is what happens. You do not
appreciate your own things . When the Spanish celebrate their ‘la tomatina’
festival by throwing tomatoes at each other or chase a bull to death or vice
versa, we all go ‘ga ga’ over it. But these same people will go to any length
criticizing their own rituals. This is the fallacy of life.
Not only
Durga puja, Christmas is also celebrated with the same gusto and fervour.
Twenty fifth December In Kolkata is also known as ‘borodin/’lond day’ meaning days start being
longer from that day.
Durga puja, Christmas is also celebrated with the same gusto and fervour.
Twenty fifth December In Kolkata is also known as ‘borodin/’lond day’ meaning days start being
longer from that day.
There is hardly
any shop in the city which does not put up Christmas decorations, a Christmas
tree or a fat- bellied red coloured Father Christmas. All houses and buildings
are decorated with coloured bulbs as well.
any shop in the city which does not put up Christmas decorations, a Christmas
tree or a fat- bellied red coloured Father Christmas. All houses and buildings
are decorated with coloured bulbs as well.
New Market
smells of freshly baked cakes. Cheaper cakes are also available in locality
shops as one must buy a cake no matter what.
smells of freshly baked cakes. Cheaper cakes are also available in locality
shops as one must buy a cake no matter what.
There is a
small church in our area where you can see a serpentine queue of people waiting
to go inside.
small church in our area where you can see a serpentine queue of people waiting
to go inside.
Park Street
is the right place to be on Christmas. Roads, trees, restaurants and hotels are
spruced up with decorations. There is so much crowd in the area that it becomes
difficult to walk or find a place in the restaurants.
is the right place to be on Christmas. Roads, trees, restaurants and hotels are
spruced up with decorations. There is so much crowd in the area that it becomes
difficult to walk or find a place in the restaurants.
Last year (2011)
, I was in Mumbai during Christmas with my son K. Bandra, where he stays, was decorated for the
occasion as it is mainly a Christian dominated area. But other pockets of
Mumbai seemed oblivious of the fact that it was Christmas whereas in Kolkata
each and every one celebrates Christmas irrespective of one’s religion. It
clearly shows the British legacy as Kolkata was the capital of the Raj for a
long time.
, I was in Mumbai during Christmas with my son K. Bandra, where he stays, was decorated for the
occasion as it is mainly a Christian dominated area. But other pockets of
Mumbai seemed oblivious of the fact that it was Christmas whereas in Kolkata
each and every one celebrates Christmas irrespective of one’s religion. It
clearly shows the British legacy as Kolkata was the capital of the Raj for a
long time.
Food is
another passion of the foodaholic Bongs. Moghlai, Bengali, Chinese or Continental – name
any type of food, you will get the best cuisine here at a very reasonable
price. Restaurants, having fusion Bengali food, have also opened up. One such
fusion food restaurant is ‘Bohemian’ opened by chef Joy at Bondel Gate.
another passion of the foodaholic Bongs. Moghlai, Bengali, Chinese or Continental – name
any type of food, you will get the best cuisine here at a very reasonable
price. Restaurants, having fusion Bengali food, have also opened up. One such
fusion food restaurant is ‘Bohemian’ opened by chef Joy at Bondel Gate.
Egg, chicken
and mutton rolls along with ‘Bengalicised’ chowmein rustled up by pavement
vendors are the most favourite food of the city dwellers as well as of the
outsiders. It is the same with the Bengali ‘misthis’/sweets. People say that
Bengali sweets are ‘pure evil’ but at the same time they also admit that they
are wonderful to eat.
and mutton rolls along with ‘Bengalicised’ chowmein rustled up by pavement
vendors are the most favourite food of the city dwellers as well as of the
outsiders. It is the same with the Bengali ‘misthis’/sweets. People say that
Bengali sweets are ‘pure evil’ but at the same time they also admit that they
are wonderful to eat.
Retail FDI
might have found it difficult to enter West Bengal but pizza, pasta, puffs, KFC,
Macdonald’s have already got entry visa here and the young Kolkatans gorge on these food looking with disdain at
their home cooked Bengali food.
might have found it difficult to enter West Bengal but pizza, pasta, puffs, KFC,
Macdonald’s have already got entry visa here and the young Kolkatans gorge on these food looking with disdain at
their home cooked Bengali food.
When my two
sons come to Kolkata, the first thing they do is to make up a list of food, in
their minds, that they must consume during their stay. They plan their lunch,
dinner and evening snacks according to the food that they have decided to have.
I look at them in amazement wondering if they have been living in famine
stricken places for all these months.
sons come to Kolkata, the first thing they do is to make up a list of food, in
their minds, that they must consume during their stay. They plan their lunch,
dinner and evening snacks according to the food that they have decided to have.
I look at them in amazement wondering if they have been living in famine
stricken places for all these months.
Kolkata has
come a long way since its early post–independence days. Most of the refugees
from East Pakistan have by now settled down. The divide between the ‘bangals’ (refugees
from East Pakistan) and the ‘ghotis’ (original Kolkatans) is also not that
great.
come a long way since its early post–independence days. Most of the refugees
from East Pakistan have by now settled down. The divide between the ‘bangals’ (refugees
from East Pakistan) and the ‘ghotis’ (original Kolkatans) is also not that
great.
Since the
last decade, Kolkata has been doing quite well due to the growing economy
though there is no scope for complacency. Much is desired even now.
last decade, Kolkata has been doing quite well due to the growing economy
though there is no scope for complacency. Much is desired even now.
Shopping malls,
multiplexes and good restaurants are common sights these days. Smart young men
with backpacks and young women wearing trendy dresses can be seen frequenting
these malls, speaking English fluently.
multiplexes and good restaurants are common sights these days. Smart young men
with backpacks and young women wearing trendy dresses can be seen frequenting
these malls, speaking English fluently.
IT hub in
sector V of Saltlake is doing well. Quite a few projects of metro railways and
flyovers are going on for fast transit.
sector V of Saltlake is doing well. Quite a few projects of metro railways and
flyovers are going on for fast transit.
A shoppers’
paradise, availability of excellent food at a reasonable price,
paradise, availability of excellent food at a reasonable price,
innumerable
heritage sites, fast transit due to metro railways, warmth of the people and a moderate climate – all
these have made Kolkata a great place to visit. Quite a few tourist sites
around Kolkata e.g. Diamond Harbour, Kaakdip, Bakhkhali, Sundarban, Tarapith,Digha sea beach, and the hills in Darjeeling are worth visiting
too.
heritage sites, fast transit due to metro railways, warmth of the people and a moderate climate – all
these have made Kolkata a great place to visit. Quite a few tourist sites
around Kolkata e.g. Diamond Harbour, Kaakdip, Bakhkhali, Sundarban, Tarapith,Digha sea beach, and the hills in Darjeeling are worth visiting
too.
Lastly, I
would like to end this post by hailing Goddess Kali, the presiding deity of the city , by saying ‘Jai
Maa Kali’ ! Kolkattawali!’
would like to end this post by hailing Goddess Kali, the presiding deity of the city , by saying ‘Jai
Maa Kali’ ! Kolkattawali!’
Rekha
Karmakar
Karmakar
Kolkata
12/09/2012.
better than any of those "10 famous walks of calcutta" books. vivid, lucid, vibrant. just like she talks. love the way she lets the sequences unfold. it is a rare gift.
Dear Mrs Karmakar,
As I've told The Knife before, I love your style of writing and eagerly await posts by you. I loved your Haridwar posts and I'm going to bookmark this one as well. It makes me want to explore all the Cal landmarks that you've mentioned. Please do keep blogging about your travels
Mahithi
lovely post….much better than all those touristy tomes!
What a wonderfully evocative trip down memory lane. I have lived away from Kolkata for nearly two decades now, and this post was such a treat. The Knife's posts on Kolkata landmarks are a pleasure to read, but this post was like a guided tour of the place and the people at one go. I can so identify with the sons coming home with a list of things to eat. Both my brother and I do that every time we visit with our parents, and they have gotten used to it now.
Lovely post Mashima!!
the best part is the fact that you write and feel about Calcutta just the way I do. Being born in Delhi and bred here so to speak I do like some things about Calcutta but I really detest the onslaught of poverty and humanity.
Ur post brought some very old happy memories of discovering Calcutta with Baba alive. I am now waiting to introduce my young daughter to this city as well.
by the way one of my most loved part of Kolkata is the Dakhineshwar mandir and Belur math. Love the peace and serenity of these places.
Please keep writing, its a pleasure to read. 🙂
Bhalo thakben!
by far the best write up according to me..maybe because it's about Kolkata and the post brings back memories of Kolkata very vividly for all kolkatans, residing outside kolkata 🙂
Such beautiful description of the joy … felt like I have seen it through your eyes. Thanks for sharing !
What a lovely bus journey!! Will see all the places I missed last time! You have covered Kolkata in a nutshell.Can see whom your famine stricken son has inherited writing genes from…
hi folks, mom has asked me to write in asking me to thank you for your comments…she has enjoyed reading them