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| Outside madhura |
I was at Dadar in Central Mumbai a few evenings back in front
of a mall called Star Mall which is in between Sena Bhavan and Plaza cinema.
The mall has a Burger King and a McDonalds. I wanted to have an evening snack before heading home.
of a mall called Star Mall which is in between Sena Bhavan and Plaza cinema.
The mall has a Burger King and a McDonalds. I wanted to have an evening snack before heading home.
I looked across the street and saw a small
shop which I had often passed by before but had never gone to. I had always thought it
to be a sweet shop. This time I noticed that there were people sitting and eating
there. I was curious and decided to go in and see what the deal was. Was it
just a tea and sweet shop or was there anything to eat there too?
shop which I had often passed by before but had never gone to. I had always thought it
to be a sweet shop. This time I noticed that there were people sitting and eating
there. I was curious and decided to go in and see what the deal was. Was it
just a tea and sweet shop or was there anything to eat there too?
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| The Madhura menu |
I crossed over and peered in and saw the
menu. They seemed to be offering all the standard Maharashtrian vegetarian
snacky dishes – poha, missal, batata vada, kothimbir vadi – the sort you get in
places such as Aaswad and Prakash down the corner near Sena Bhavan. I decided
to try my luck with the food as I saw that the tiny shop was packed with people who seemed to
be eating happily.
menu. They seemed to be offering all the standard Maharashtrian vegetarian
snacky dishes – poha, missal, batata vada, kothimbir vadi – the sort you get in
places such as Aaswad and Prakash down the corner near Sena Bhavan. I decided
to try my luck with the food as I saw that the tiny shop was packed with people who seemed to
be eating happily.
The restaurant turned out to be the sort of place where you are
supposed to share a table with your fellow diners. Yes, table sharing is common
in traditional Indian restaurants even though modern restaurants such as Le Pain Quotidien and The Table have introduced it here as a novel concept from Europe.
supposed to share a table with your fellow diners. Yes, table sharing is common
in traditional Indian restaurants even though modern restaurants such as Le Pain Quotidien and The Table have introduced it here as a novel concept from Europe.
An elderly and smiling waiter showed me a
table close to the door. The two gentlemen already sitting there quickly made space for
me so that I could sit comfortably.
table close to the door. The two gentlemen already sitting there quickly made space for
me so that I could sit comfortably.
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| Poha at madhura |
I was hungry and quickly ordered a poha.
This is a popular Maharashtrian dish which, thanks to memories of my granny’s cooking back
home in Calcutta, is a comfort dish for me. You can read my recent article on my
poha memories for NDTV Food here.
This is a popular Maharashtrian dish which, thanks to memories of my granny’s cooking back
home in Calcutta, is a comfort dish for me. You can read my recent article on my
poha memories for NDTV Food here.
I took a bite of the poha and smiled. The
rice flakes had a nice firm texture. The dish was not greasy at all. There was
a mild sweetness to the dish and it was seasoned perfectly and had a hint of
chilli heat to it. If I was to shut my eyes, I would have thought I was eating
this dish in someone’s home. Cooked by someone’s grandmother. Not in a
restaurant.
rice flakes had a nice firm texture. The dish was not greasy at all. There was
a mild sweetness to the dish and it was seasoned perfectly and had a hint of
chilli heat to it. If I was to shut my eyes, I would have thought I was eating
this dish in someone’s home. Cooked by someone’s grandmother. Not in a
restaurant.
I realised the reason why everyone around me in the restaurant looked so happy.
I was wondering what to order next and
began talking to my table mates. The gentleman sitting opposite me, a professor, said he was
a regular at this restaurant 20 years back. He now lives in far off Nerul. He had popped in
for a snack on the way back home after delivering a lecture on parenting and
education in a nearby auditorium.
began talking to my table mates. The gentleman sitting opposite me, a professor, said he was
a regular at this restaurant 20 years back. He now lives in far off Nerul. He had popped in
for a snack on the way back home after delivering a lecture on parenting and
education in a nearby auditorium.
I realized that I had entered the shop
without checking the name. I looked out and saw that this tiny restaurant is
called ‘Madhura’.
without checking the name. I looked out and saw that this tiny restaurant is
called ‘Madhura’.
The professor suggested that I try a farali missal.
Faral refers to fasting food. For Maharashtrians, ‘fasting’ for religious
occasions, from what I have observed, doesn’t mean abstaining from food unlike for us Bengalis. It’s just that
there are restrictions on what they can eat. Farali food refers to dishes made with
the ingredients that are allowed on such days. The professor told me that he
was not actually fasting and yet had chosen the farali version of the missal at Madhura as it is very
tasty.
Faral refers to fasting food. For Maharashtrians, ‘fasting’ for religious
occasions, from what I have observed, doesn’t mean abstaining from food unlike for us Bengalis. It’s just that
there are restrictions on what they can eat. Farali food refers to dishes made with
the ingredients that are allowed on such days. The professor told me that he
was not actually fasting and yet had chosen the farali version of the missal at Madhura as it is very
tasty.
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| Farali missal at mahura |
The farali missal was promptly brought to our
table. It looked very different from regular missal, a dish I am fond of. The sauce in the farali version was creamish white in colour and not
yellowish-red unlike in a missal. The dish had sabudana or sago beans and not
pulses such as matki beans that regular missal has. The dish had potatoes and white
deep fried thin potato straw toppings instead of the yellow gram flour based
fried crunchy farsan which conventional missal has.
table. It looked very different from regular missal, a dish I am fond of. The sauce in the farali version was creamish white in colour and not
yellowish-red unlike in a missal. The dish had sabudana or sago beans and not
pulses such as matki beans that regular missal has. The dish had potatoes and white
deep fried thin potato straw toppings instead of the yellow gram flour based
fried crunchy farsan which conventional missal has.
I tried the dish and was floored with the
taste. The sauce was mildly sweet and then there were bursts of chilli heat
popping up in each bite. The sago beans were properly cooked, not chewy at all. The potato
straws gave a nice textural contrast to the sauce. I realized why the professor
ordered this dish even if he was not fasting.
taste. The sauce was mildly sweet and then there were bursts of chilli heat
popping up in each bite. The sago beans were properly cooked, not chewy at all. The potato
straws gave a nice textural contrast to the sauce. I realized why the professor
ordered this dish even if he was not fasting.
While I ate the farali missal, the prof
called for a farali thali peeth or the fasting version of the popular Maharashtrian
multi grain flat bread, thali peeth. I shamelessly requested to take a
photograph of the picture before he and his friend ate it. They indulged me
politely.
called for a farali thali peeth or the fasting version of the popular Maharashtrian
multi grain flat bread, thali peeth. I shamelessly requested to take a
photograph of the picture before he and his friend ate it. They indulged me
politely.
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| Farali thlai peeth at madhura |
I was intrigued by the sauce of the missal
and wondered if it had curd as the base. I noticed the elderly couple at the
couple and realized that they were the owners. So I looked at them and asked
whether the curry had curd in it.
and wondered if it had curd as the base. I noticed the elderly couple at the
couple and realized that they were the owners. So I looked at them and asked
whether the curry had curd in it.
The lady smilingly replied that it didn’t
have curd. That the white colour was a result of a mix of coconut milk (or
juice, I am not sure) and crushed peanuts. The coconut bit explained the
sweetness I guess.
have curd. That the white colour was a result of a mix of coconut milk (or
juice, I am not sure) and crushed peanuts. The coconut bit explained the
sweetness I guess.
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| Shalan and Shankar Velankar of Madhura |
I got to know the story of Madhura from the lady and her husband, Mrs Shalan and Mr Shankar Velankar, the owners of Madhura.
The story of Madhura began 80 years back in
Girgaom in South Mumbai when a small restaurant called Kolhapuri Chiwda was
opened. KC still exists and is run by Mr Velankar’s younger brother I was told.
Girgaom in South Mumbai when a small restaurant called Kolhapuri Chiwda was
opened. KC still exists and is run by Mr Velankar’s younger brother I was told.
The Velankars opened Madhura in Dadar in
1988, close to thirty years back. Mr Velankar, a civil engineer, was in service then and managed the restaurant on the side. While in college, he had gone to London to study in the 1960s. His son, an engineer too, lives in the US now. Mr Shankar runs the restaurant with his wife.
1988, close to thirty years back. Mr Velankar, a civil engineer, was in service then and managed the restaurant on the side. While in college, he had gone to London to study in the 1960s. His son, an engineer too, lives in the US now. Mr Shankar runs the restaurant with his wife.
His wife, Shalan aunty, looked at me and proudly pointed to her husband and said, “he has made changes to recipes at Kolhapuri Chiwda and the recipes are his own”.
Mr Velankar said that original menu was
sans onion and garlic. He introduced these to suit the taste preferences of the
itinerant crowd at Dadar. He also said that the dishes at Kolhapuri Chiwda,
like its neighbour Vinay Health Home in Girgaom, was on the sweeter side. He
tempered down the sweet notes to suit local tastes. The food in their vegetarian household is sweeter than what they serve in the restaurant.
sans onion and garlic. He introduced these to suit the taste preferences of the
itinerant crowd at Dadar. He also said that the dishes at Kolhapuri Chiwda,
like its neighbour Vinay Health Home in Girgaom, was on the sweeter side. He
tempered down the sweet notes to suit local tastes. The food in their vegetarian household is sweeter than what they serve in the restaurant.
Well, Mr Velankar’s tinkering had definitely let to
some really tasty dishes.
some really tasty dishes.
The attraction of running a restaurant
finally got to Mr Velankar and he took an early retirement and began to run
Madhura full time.
finally got to Mr Velankar and he took an early retirement and began to run
Madhura full time.
This is pretty rare for Maharashtrians who,
like Bengalis, prefer to be in service than run their own businesses.
like Bengalis, prefer to be in service than run their own businesses.
“All these shops on the road are run by
Non- Maharashtrians” said Mr Velankar. This despite our being in the heart of a
Maharashtrian dominated locality in Mumbai.
Non- Maharashtrians” said Mr Velankar. This despite our being in the heart of a
Maharashtrian dominated locality in Mumbai.
I asked Mrs Velankar what else I should try
and she suggested the kothimbir vadi.
and she suggested the kothimbir vadi.
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| Kothimbir vadi at Madhura |
This was brought to my table within minutes
of my ordering it. Freshly fried. Intricately flavoured with savoury notes
interspersed with sharp tastes of fresh coriander (kothambir) and mildy pungent bites of garlic. The texture was beautiful,
crunchy outside and soft and yet firm inside. Probably the best rendition of
this Maharashtrian favourite that I have had. I couldn’t finish all the food
and packed some for home. My mom in law loved the kothimbir vadi the best too
and remember she had it cold and not fresh from the pan unlike me.
of my ordering it. Freshly fried. Intricately flavoured with savoury notes
interspersed with sharp tastes of fresh coriander (kothambir) and mildy pungent bites of garlic. The texture was beautiful,
crunchy outside and soft and yet firm inside. Probably the best rendition of
this Maharashtrian favourite that I have had. I couldn’t finish all the food
and packed some for home. My mom in law loved the kothimbir vadi the best too
and remember she had it cold and not fresh from the pan unlike me.
Mrs Velankar explained that the kothimbir vadi is made by boiling a gramflour (besan) based dough which is first mixed with chilli,
garlic and fresh coriander. The cubes
are deep fried when a customer places an order and served fresh. All the food
is made fresh daily here.
garlic and fresh coriander. The cubes
are deep fried when a customer places an order and served fresh. All the food
is made fresh daily here.
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| Batata Vada at Madhura |
I wanted to try more (!) food and ordered a
plate of batata vada. The gramflour batter crust was beautifully crunchy and well seasoned and the potato mash inside was very pleasantly spiced unlike the super spicy vada pav in the sliders that
I tried at Bombay Vintage, a new Indian fusion place, the other day.
plate of batata vada. The gramflour batter crust was beautifully crunchy and well seasoned and the potato mash inside was very pleasantly spiced unlike the super spicy vada pav in the sliders that
I tried at Bombay Vintage, a new Indian fusion place, the other day.
This was comfort food. Potatoes wrapped in
carbs and deep fried. A lullaby of a dish.
carbs and deep fried. A lullaby of a dish.
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| The missal at madhura |
Having tried the farali missal, I wanted to
try the regular missal at Madhura too. The curry here was a bit thinner than the one at Aaswad,
and had a pleasant slightly sweet tang well complimented by a bit of tanginess
and chilli kick. Again very different from the thick and very spicy mutton
missal at Bombay Vintage. In fact none of the missals that I have eaten in Mumbai have been very spicy though the legendary one at Mamledar at Thane, which I am yet to try, is supposed to very tikkhat or spicy
try the regular missal at Madhura too. The curry here was a bit thinner than the one at Aaswad,
and had a pleasant slightly sweet tang well complimented by a bit of tanginess
and chilli kick. Again very different from the thick and very spicy mutton
missal at Bombay Vintage. In fact none of the missals that I have eaten in Mumbai have been very spicy though the legendary one at Mamledar at Thane, which I am yet to try, is supposed to very tikkhat or spicy
The missal at Madhura I happily
polished off and what I couldn’t finish, I took for my mom in law who liked it
as she did the remaining batata vada.
polished off and what I couldn’t finish, I took for my mom in law who liked it
as she did the remaining batata vada.
The missal at Madhura had more of the
farsan (crunchy namkeen) than pulses in it. Turns out that they make the farsan
in house here and offer it on sale along with other Marathi snacks, spices and
sweets. You get these at the Kolhapuri Chiwda too. Mr Velankar proudly showed
me his recipe book for the snacks that they sold. He smiled and said that there
is no recipe book for the hot meals. Those are prepared from memory, instinct
and experience!
farsan (crunchy namkeen) than pulses in it. Turns out that they make the farsan
in house here and offer it on sale along with other Marathi snacks, spices and
sweets. You get these at the Kolhapuri Chiwda too. Mr Velankar proudly showed
me his recipe book for the snacks that they sold. He smiled and said that there
is no recipe book for the hot meals. Those are prepared from memory, instinct
and experience!
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| The recipe book |
I bought quite a bit of snacks and masalas
for my Maharashtrian friends who said they quite liked it.
for my Maharashtrian friends who said they quite liked it.
The beauty of Dadar is that thanks to the train station close by, you have people from all communities coming here and I met a smiling
Bengali couple who came in for chai at Madhura. They too, like me, have made
Mumbai their home.
Bengali couple who came in for chai at Madhura. They too, like me, have made
Mumbai their home.
For dessert I had a delectably thick
shrikhand which had just the right levels of sweetness and was not overtly
sweet or synthetic and had an interesting touch of spice to it.
shrikhand which had just the right levels of sweetness and was not overtly
sweet or synthetic and had an interesting touch of spice to it.
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| Shrikhand at Madhura |
Mrs Velankar told me that they make their
Shrikhand in house. The dish takes two days in making apparently. One day for making the
curd from milk. Then the curd is strained overnight through a muslin cloth.
Sugar and nutmeg (remember the spice notes I mentioned) powder are blended into the
resultant mixture and then refrigerated.
Shrikhand in house. The dish takes two days in making apparently. One day for making the
curd from milk. Then the curd is strained overnight through a muslin cloth.
Sugar and nutmeg (remember the spice notes I mentioned) powder are blended into the
resultant mixture and then refrigerated.
I paid my bill, booked an Uber and moved
on.
on.
My food bill for the poha, 2 missals, kothimbir vada, batata vada and
shrikhand was Rs 209! (January 2015)
shrikhand was Rs 209! (January 2015)
I was smiling widely when I got into the
cab feeling very at peace.
cab feeling very at peace.
It has been a while since I have popped into a small place packed with people,
run by proud and passionate owners serving food that is freshly made and
blessed by years of loyal diners and at prices which allows you to enjoy
the food without worrying about your finances.
run by proud and passionate owners serving food that is freshly made and
blessed by years of loyal diners and at prices which allows you to enjoy
the food without worrying about your finances.
The sort of place where you are guaranteed to
have a happy meal.
have a happy meal.
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| Madhura. Don’t miss it |
Madhura
is opposite Star Mall near Plaza. It is open from 9 am to 9pm and is shut on
Fridays. They serve roti and a daily bhaji (vegetable) at lunch time. The
restaurant is no frills, clean and non-air-conditioned. The don’t levy a service charge but make you feel fully at home. The owner speaks English and everyone speaks Hindi apart from Marathi. Do check out this article of mine on exploring Indian regional food and try out restaurants such as Madhura for this
I enjoy reading posts such as these. Makes me happy to see such places surviving the test of time, and thriving. Will pop into Madhura when I am in the area next. Superb find!
Thanks Zenia. These are the sort of experiences I enjoy the most too
You are a great story teller. My childhood was a shuttle between the suburbbbbs and south mumbai. Walkeshwar and girgaum to be precise. This blog brought back memories of girgaum and small eateries like madhura. I am a gujju by birth but a maharashtrian soul at heart. My canadian kids will kick up a fuss with the everyday roti sabzi i give out but will happily polish off sabudana khichdi and poha. They love thaleepith and varan bhat. These are my comfort foods and i am trying to pass them on to the kids. I have taken their PBJ (Peanut butter and jelly sandwich) and i have given them phoha and varan bhat.
Thank you so much Sneha. I enjoyed the evening and I am glad it came through in the post. I think that it is superb that your kids love varan bhaat. Much better than me who would never eat Indian food as a kid