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| Half meat portion meat curry and half rice. Rs 140. Sardar Paya House |
Mumbai’s mini Amritsar/ Ludhiana/ Jalandhar
I had recently written about a trip that I had made to
Sion, a suburb in Mumbai, and the life redefining samosas and soothing and
soulful Sindhi Kadhi chawal that I had at Guru Kripa and the fish fry
and Mangalore gassi marvel that I got to experience at the Modern Lunch Home there. But there was more to that glorious day which I need to tell you about!
Sion, a suburb in Mumbai, and the life redefining samosas and soothing and
soulful Sindhi Kadhi chawal that I had at Guru Kripa and the fish fry
and Mangalore gassi marvel that I got to experience at the Modern Lunch Home there. But there was more to that glorious day which I need to tell you about!
When I made my plans for the trip earlier that morning and reached out to my
friend and food oracle, Dr Pradeep Rao, for ideas; he said that I should go to
Hazara at Sion Koliwada. I had never heard of the place to be honest. He
explained that Hazara is a quarter bar (bars where you can buy bottles and
not just glasses of alcohol) which is said to have been the inventor of the fish
and the prawn Koliwada.
A dish which has nothing to do with the Koli fishermen
folks of Mumbai by the way. It is as Punjabi as Daler Mahendi!
friend and food oracle, Dr Pradeep Rao, for ideas; he said that I should go to
Hazara at Sion Koliwada. I had never heard of the place to be honest. He
explained that Hazara is a quarter bar (bars where you can buy bottles and
not just glasses of alcohol) which is said to have been the inventor of the fish
and the prawn Koliwada.
A dish which has nothing to do with the Koli fishermen
folks of Mumbai by the way. It is as Punjabi as Daler Mahendi!
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| The birthplace of Mumbai’s fish Koliwada |
Pradeep added that there are a couple of other Punjabi run restaurants there; namely Mini Punjab (Bandra has one with the same name too) and Hardeep Punjab. The latter is
considered to be the best for food these days according to him.
considered to be the best for food these days according to him.
Not one to argue with the doc, I booked an Ola and headed out from Sion Circle to Sion Koliwada after my second lunch of the day, even
though I was more stuffed than the standard issue five star hotel bed mattress by then.
Interestingly, my cabbie knew where Hazara was and did not need to refer to Google
maps. Something which is rather rare these days as the new breed of cab drivers of Mumbai
seem to even less than Jon Snow when it comes to directions.
though I was more stuffed than the standard issue five star hotel bed mattress by then.
Interestingly, my cabbie knew where Hazara was and did not need to refer to Google
maps. Something which is rather rare these days as the new breed of cab drivers of Mumbai
seem to even less than Jon Snow when it comes to directions.
I have a hypothesis about why our driver knew of Hazara. Could be because of the fish koliwada of course, but I think that it is more likely because the area seemed to be a cab hub/ adda. I saw a number of cars parked in the area in front of Hazara. Largely outside car repair workshops, flanked by a Gurudwara at the start. Hence chances are that the driver knew of the place through work.
What I saw reminded me of the 80s when most taxis, in Kolkata and Delhi at least, were driven by Sardarjis. One hardly sees any now though with folks from UP and Bihar having replaced them it seems, including in Mumbai.
What I saw reminded me of the 80s when most taxis, in Kolkata and Delhi at least, were driven by Sardarjis. One hardly sees any now though with folks from UP and Bihar having replaced them it seems, including in Mumbai.
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| Welcome to Sion Koliwada. Mumbai’s mini Punjabi Town |
The Koliwada area looked a tad dirtier than the lanes that dotted
Sion circle. Lanes which I had walked down earlier in the day. Those were neat and
clean and had trees lining them. This looked slightly unkempt with open gutters and piles of garbage. It seemed a bit out of place compared to the area around the Sion cirlce.
Sion circle. Lanes which I had walked down earlier in the day. Those were neat and
clean and had trees lining them. This looked slightly unkempt with open gutters and piles of garbage. It seemed a bit out of place compared to the area around the Sion cirlce.
From what I gather, 25 buildings were built in this (Koliwada) area in 1957 to house refugees who had come into Mumbai from undivided Punjab during the partition. The surviving members of whom and their descendants live here now. I read that there is a dispute going on among the local residents and the government as the latter wants to tear down the buildings and redevelop the area. I wonder if a bit of the dishevelled state of the place is due to this
impasse. One needs to study this more in detail of course without reaching such
a conclusion of course.
impasse. One needs to study this more in detail of course without reaching such
a conclusion of course.
I got a glimpse into their lives when I walked into a small
market that lies beside Hazara. The Punjabi Colony Market is what locals
call it I was told. I saw a little shop selling paraphernalia for bhangra bands and then
another, a grocery shop, that sold flours, pickles, papads and wadias which
would make you feel for a moment that you were in one of the shops near the
Golden Temple at Amritsar.
market that lies beside Hazara. The Punjabi Colony Market is what locals
call it I was told. I saw a little shop selling paraphernalia for bhangra bands and then
another, a grocery shop, that sold flours, pickles, papads and wadias which
would make you feel for a moment that you were in one of the shops near the
Golden Temple at Amritsar.
How’s the meat?
What caught my attention in the market was a tiny corner shop where I saw a Sardaji (Sikh gentleman) patiently churning curries that lay inside vessels placed on hot
coal fires before he scooped out some food to serve. Yes, this was Pappu
Payawala himself. I had read about his shop, Sardar Paya House, on the internet that morning.
coal fires before he scooped out some food to serve. Yes, this was Pappu
Payawala himself. I had read about his shop, Sardar Paya House, on the internet that morning.
The place intrigued me and I
decided to stop here and have a plate of mutton and rice. So what if I had eaten two
lunches and was on my way to the third?
decided to stop here and have a plate of mutton and rice. So what if I had eaten two
lunches and was on my way to the third?
One had the option of taking half plates thankfully. I went for a half plate of meat (mutton/ goat meat) and plain pulao rice (pav is available too).
There were a couple of benches by the cooking station and I
decided to sit there. Looked more ‘atmospheric’ than the tiny, dingy room
inside.
decided to sit there. Looked more ‘atmospheric’ than the tiny, dingy room
inside.
“How is the meat,” asked an elderly Sikh gentleman who settled down at the table beside me. “Not bad at all,” I replied.
“Good then I will go for that and not the chicken today,” he
said. He added that he had been coming here for decades to eat and found the
quality consistent. He waited patiently for his food. Our conversation ended once our food arrived. The meat demanded our attention.
said. He added that he had been coming here for decades to eat and found the
quality consistent. He waited patiently for his food. Our conversation ended once our food arrived. The meat demanded our attention.
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| Meat curry and rice at Sardar Paya House. Rs 140 |
“Is the place overrated,” some asked me later on social media when I put up pictures of what I ate.
Well, here’s the deal. My order of half plate got me two
pieces of mutton. Neither was very tender to be honest. Neither was too tough. Each piece had a reassuring bite to it which
encouraged you to finish them, which I did.
pieces of mutton. Neither was very tender to be honest. Neither was too tough. Each piece had a reassuring bite to it which
encouraged you to finish them, which I did.
The curry had a home-like, onion
based gravy taste with a sharp chilli/ pepper punch. It reminded me of the
mutton curry that I had at Sardar Meatwala on the streets of Delhi’s Sadar
Bazar a couple of weeks back.
based gravy taste with a sharp chilli/ pepper punch. It reminded me of the
mutton curry that I had at Sardar Meatwala on the streets of Delhi’s Sadar
Bazar a couple of weeks back.
The dish did not give me any heartburn. Or an
upset stomach.
upset stomach.
Seemed like a good deal to me. And that too at Rs 140 (with half a plate of rice). Add to that the thrill of discovery and a liberal dash of personal history.
I spoke to Pappuji on the way out once I was done with my meal. He told me
that he starts preparing for the day by 7 am before he opens for business. He does not open again for dinner so lunch time is when you
have to come here to eat these slow cooked wonders.
that he starts preparing for the day by 7 am before he opens for business. He does not open again for dinner so lunch time is when you
have to come here to eat these slow cooked wonders.
He told me that his name is
Lucky Singh but is known as Pappu Singh. That his father, the late Sardar Singh, had
started the business in 1974 or so and that Pappu had joined him soon after
that, when he was much younger. The signboard has both their names today.
Lucky Singh but is known as Pappu Singh. That his father, the late Sardar Singh, had
started the business in 1974 or so and that Pappu had joined him soon after
that, when he was much younger. The signboard has both their names today.
There is a larger proportion of Maharashtrians
than Punjabis among his clientele said Pappuji. His business catered to all and
not just his community it seemed.
than Punjabis among his clientele said Pappuji. His business catered to all and
not just his community it seemed.
Stopping at his shop made me really happy. I was stuffed after this of course. However, I soldiered on for you. I had a date with some prawns after all.
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| Mutton makes everything right |
Punjabi prawnography
Koliwada means fishing village and is named so after the Kolis of Mumbai. I guess that when the Punjabis of Sion introduced their fried prawn and fish dishes, they named it Koliwada after the
area which was their new home. I went into Hardeep though and not Hazara that
afternoon to try the prawn koliwada.
area which was their new home. I went into Hardeep though and not Hazara that
afternoon to try the prawn koliwada.
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| An oasis of air-conditioned bliss |
It was well past lunch time but both
restaurants were still open. Hardeep looked nicer and brighter. Remarkably clean
compared to its surroundings. The décor was reminiscent of some of the better maintained dhaabas that you will see across India. Functional yet warm. It evoked a sense of familiarity.
restaurants were still open. Hardeep looked nicer and brighter. Remarkably clean
compared to its surroundings. The décor was reminiscent of some of the better maintained dhaabas that you will see across India. Functional yet warm. It evoked a sense of familiarity.
Truth be
told, I loved the blast of air-conditioning that refreshed me the moment I
walked in. The loo (men’s) was very clean. There were a couple of families
having a late lunch and one middle-aged couple too enjoying kebabs and beer.
told, I loved the blast of air-conditioning that refreshed me the moment I
walked in. The loo (men’s) was very clean. There were a couple of families
having a late lunch and one middle-aged couple too enjoying kebabs and beer.
It was the middle of the week that day and yet you could be forgiven for thinking that it was a Sunday. That is how languorous
the vibes were. The service was very prompt though.
the vibes were. The service was very prompt though.
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| Inside Hardeep Punjab. The restaurant is quite spacious and bright too |
I had a massive glass of
chhaas (buttermilk) which rejuvenated me while I waited for my plate of prawns
koliwada. My order took a bit of time to come. It was obvious that they were
cooking it from scratch.
chhaas (buttermilk) which rejuvenated me while I waited for my plate of prawns
koliwada. My order took a bit of time to come. It was obvious that they were
cooking it from scratch.
The serving that arrived was very generous in terms of quanity. The plate
cost Rs 400, but the size of the prawns was impressive. The odd ajwain hit with
each bite took me to places such as Makhan and Beera in Amritsar where I have
had the fish fries of Punjab. Punjabis are not that experimental with fish of course. In Amritsar
they use cubed fillets of the fairly neutral tasting sole and
singara fish.
cost Rs 400, but the size of the prawns was impressive. The odd ajwain hit with
each bite took me to places such as Makhan and Beera in Amritsar where I have
had the fish fries of Punjab. Punjabis are not that experimental with fish of course. In Amritsar
they use cubed fillets of the fairly neutral tasting sole and
singara fish.
The use of prawns was obviously a Mumbai inspiration for the
Punjabis settled here. De-shelled and deveined of course. I cannot imagine the Punjabis chewing on the head and
brains and the tail of a prawn, unlike say a Bengali or even a Maharashtrian. That would be expecting a bit too much!
Punjabis settled here. De-shelled and deveined of course. I cannot imagine the Punjabis chewing on the head and
brains and the tail of a prawn, unlike say a Bengali or even a Maharashtrian. That would be expecting a bit too much!
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| The prawn koliwada at Hardeep Punjab. Rs 400 |
What I must stress on was that the frying of the prawns was just
perfect at Hardeep.
perfect at Hardeep.
They were not undercooked. Nor overcooked. Each prawn was so juicy.
Interestingly, a bit of corn flour had been used to bind the masalas on the fish here unlike at Modern Lunch Home earlier, where a bit of rava had been used.
Interestingly, a bit of corn flour had been used to bind the masalas on the fish here unlike at Modern Lunch Home earlier, where a bit of rava had been used.
I had just
3 or 4 prawns as I was rather full and had actually ordered them just because I wanted to taste them when freshly made.
3 or 4 prawns as I was rather full and had actually ordered them just because I wanted to taste them when freshly made.
I packed
the rest and took it home and K and I had them after reheating them on a pan,
at least seven hours after they were cooked. They still tasted so good. The
cooks at Hardeep had done a stellar job. Through the frying of the prawns, they
had shown that the sardars of Sion had well and truly assimilated into the
rhythm of Mumbai!
the rest and took it home and K and I had them after reheating them on a pan,
at least seven hours after they were cooked. They still tasted so good. The
cooks at Hardeep had done a stellar job. Through the frying of the prawns, they
had shown that the sardars of Sion had well and truly assimilated into the
rhythm of Mumbai!
It is no wonder that the prawn koliwada is a dish that is much loved in Mumbai and is now associated strongly with the city.
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| A day well spent |
Is it even possible to say goodbye to the Sion Koliwada?
A couple of hours is not enough to do justice to the Sion
Koliwada I realised that afternoon. This is not just because I did not eat at Hazara or
Mini Punjab that day, or try more dishes at Hardeep. Internet reviews recommend the chicken chaska kebab at Hardeep which apparently has cheese smothered on kebabs. Ok then!
Koliwada I realised that afternoon. This is not just because I did not eat at Hazara or
Mini Punjab that day, or try more dishes at Hardeep. Internet reviews recommend the chicken chaska kebab at Hardeep which apparently has cheese smothered on kebabs. Ok then!
Nor was it because I had not been to the famous
chhole bhature place which is supposed to be located close by. Nor to the chhole puri place.
chhole bhature place which is supposed to be located close by. Nor to the chhole puri place.
It is actually because I feel that it is really worth spending some time there. To
get to know the stories of a community who had lost their all, who came
to a new place and then, instead of dwelling on the past and cursing what happened,
worked hard to make themselves a precious part of the fabric of their new home.
get to know the stories of a community who had lost their all, who came
to a new place and then, instead of dwelling on the past and cursing what happened,
worked hard to make themselves a precious part of the fabric of their new home.
I am sure that there are many life’s lessons to be learnt in
that.
that.
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| I have to go back to Sion Koliwada |
Posts that could be of interest:
1. Guru Kripa
2. Modern Lunch Home
3. Makhan and Beera fish
4. Puran Sigh dhaba at Ambala, famous for its meat curry
4. Sardar meat wala at Sadar Bazar
Sources referred to:
Free Press Journal
