If there’s one phrase that I’d use to describe chef Vicky Ratnani, it would be ‘live wire.’ A lot of his work of late happens near where I stay in Bandra and I do bump into him often.
Each time he excitedly tells me about a new project that he’s coming up with and his enthusiasm is infectious. Sometimes he’s kind enough to send test samplers after he launches them. Today for example, when I got to try samples from his latest baby, Speak Burgers. A premium burger delivery outlet. A market which earlier saw the entry of brands such as Zorawar Kalra’s Louis Burgers.
‘Not more than 3 please,’ I told Yogita Rajhans of the Other Circle who was coordinating this. The problem with sampling is people send too many dishes and it all becomes a blur then. I asked for one buff, one fish and one veg.
While the burgers reached at 1, I could only eat them at 4 as I was caught up work. I heated them appropriately in the oven.
Here’s my take on them:
Two buns were brioche buns. Soft and buttery. They got a bit soggy at the base but remember they had to wait for long for me to get to them. The Bohemian had peppered potato buns and those were soft and did not get soggy.
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| I love my Paris |
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| Surf Board |
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| The Bohemian |
- I love my Paris – buff and brie – moist buff patty was a plus but the burger was an example of what new age burgers in India are. Super sized and over stuffed. With chunky brie, truffle oil, lots of foliage, there was too much going on in the burger if you are a pure meat lover. Good value and filling otherwise. More what I’d associate with the US than the beef patty centric burger that I had at Montmartre, Paris, or at Nase Maso, Prague for that matter. More Philly than Paris!
- Surf board: Baja style fried fish burger. This came with two batter fried fish fillets sent in a separate bag which confused me in the beginning till the penny dropped. I crisped the fillets in the oven and put them in the bun. Again I felt one fillet would be sufficient. Despite reheating, the batter remained crunchy and the fish juicy inside. The salad-like tanginess of the salsa verde with the tomato, cabbage complimented the fish well and this was my runner up.
- The Bohemian: Roasted beet and black-bean burger. Surprise of surprise, the vegetarian burger was my winner! One bite and I was a teenager again. Entering the hallowed portals of Presidency College, Calcutta. The year 1992. When my friend, Bunty, introduced me to the concept of veg chop stuffed in a pound bread for 5 Rs in Promod da’s canteen. ‘Keeps you going for the day.’ Each bite of the burger with the veg chop like beet flavoured patty today brought back fond memories. Of the three burgers that I tried, this was the best balanced one with fillings such as green chilli hummus, harissa aoli and feta. An unbridled delight to chomp on!
