Kolkata’s Amar Khamar brings the kitchens of Bengali grandmas in focus

Amar Khamar, initially an enterprise to connect farmers of Bengal with consumers, was launched in 2019. ‘Amar’ means ‘my,’ and ‘khamar’ means ‘storehouse of grains.’ It was co-founded by Sujoy Chatterjee and Sarah Gekeler. They worked with farmers in Bengal to restore, cultivate, and sell varieties of rice that were slipping into obscurity. Encouraged by their success, they spread their wings to include pulses, spices, jaggery, honey, and ghee, selling these artisanal products to an upmarket urban market with the hope that adoption and volumes would grow, making them more mainstream. Raina Talukder joined the founders to oversee the brand.

With Sarah and Raina and my friend and AK fan, Kaniska Chakraborty

They have recently gotten into upward integration and opened a restaurant called Amar Khamar Lunch Room in south Kolkata. The space is small, cheerful, clean, and casual, ‘homely’ and warm.

Manghor chui c=jhal. Chui bark was used to add heat to food before chillies were introduced.

The food served does not come with the pedigree of royalty or monikers such as ‘forgotten’ food. The restaurant offers dishes prepared in the homes of the owners, chefs, staff, and even the farmers they collaborate with. Everyday fare, served on a banana leaf. One interesting aspect they do is ‘rice pairings’ to help appreciate the variety of rice that Bengal has to offer. Examples of what’s on offer include: ‘Sugondhi Karpurkanti Aatap with Teto, Shak, Makha or Bata’
Soru Siddho Gourab with Bhaja, Dal, Torkari
Soru Siddho Rupshal with Mains – Machh, mangsho.’

Dumur phol diye golda chingri. Dumur is a sort of fog native to Bengal

‘The first is a delicate, fragrant rice that complements the subtle notes of shukto, shak, and makha. The more full-bodied rice that comes later in the meal could overpower the delicate notes of the initial three courses,’ says Raina. Once finished, you can head to the store and buy the produce on offer.

Payesh with purple rice

What struck me about the food was how wholesome and nourishing it was, full of a grandma’s love.
If I were to choose one restaurant for you to try Bengali food, it would be this one.

khichuri thala: bhuna khichuri

First published on Instagram on 12 January 2026